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Chainsaw chain - sharpen or replace?

I have a friend who owns a small Stihl MS 180C chainsaw as he only needs one a few times a year. We often work together this time of year cutting hedges etc because of safety issues and have noted over the years that he only ever fits new chains. As i don't own a chainsaw I asked him today about sharpening and he said a new genuine Stihl chain on eBay is only £14 delivered. He reckoned it would take at least half an hour to sharpen (say £10 cost) plus the cost of files etc and he doubted he would get is as sharp as new when finished. plus if it was not ground just so there could be an adverse reaction, kick back etcHe finished of by saying there is no second chances with chainsaws so why risk anything.I can understand experienced regular users of larger saws sharpening the chain but on the face of it, his policy seemed reasonably sound to me. So, what does the occasional small chainsaw user do on this site, sharpen or replace.

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  • PRO
    I would sharpen mine as it is something that can be done when there are a few minutes spare - at the end of the day or during wet weather.

    I agree though, sometimes financially it doesn;t seem to make sense when new chains are so cheap!

    It does however mean that there is less waste (landfill) and you don't need to store upteen chains for when they become dull of they are sharpened.
  • I'm with pro gard on this one. I always used to just give the chain a once over every time it needed new fuel top up. Chain would last for a long time. In Sweden this is the only practice, as the short spell of time these operations take also help to relieve the risk of white tip.

    Where are all these newly new chains going?.
  • i would have agreed and did the same 'policy' untill doing my course -

    i can now sharpen with the files £12? last for years (3 in pack). maybe 20 mins for a 16-18"

    easier in a vice/ clamp. !! file cutters? and depth guages -every 3rd time.

    now - its easier for me than buying,paying ,waiting for post-man and re-fitting new chain !

    it must be done correctly / right angle/ and file to suit.........so it doesnt' pull or strain engine .
  • sharpen every time
  • Quick sharpen every time after use (and sometimes during!) but keep a spare chain in reserve.
  • I sharpen mine....never quite manage to get the shop fresh sharp on it though....has improved with chain off, a couple of bits of angle iron, fresh files and a vice though....

    Last couple of years I've had good work clearing chestnut.....flat out all day logging on site 6-8 ton of wood easy....the chains take a battering and I should have been sharpening more than I was ! perhaps that would explain the extra wear I got on the bar above and below the tip ?

    Didn't help i suppose that a lot of the time I had the bar buried as these weren't young trees (60+ years I reckon)

    To start with I was using a hammer in bar clamp to sharpen, than a portable vice then I realised sharpening a few chains the night before on a bench, chain off helped a lot as it was as easy to change chain give that a few licks and then just change again when not performing again....

    I use a magnetic angle guide and a hand file with depth gauge fitted to sharpen.....anything better ??
  • I have seen most hire shops supply a new chain with every chainsaw hire, I suppose it just gets priced into the cost of hire. but it does make you wonder where all these nearly new chains end up.

    I sharpen mine but have a ready supply of new chains available. I can't ever seem to get them to cut as well as when they are new.
  • PRO
    This is a great topic and thanks to Gordon for starting it.

    I sharpen my chains and always have done but I see no reason why your friend couldn't have a couple of spares and rotate them.

    If he isn't confident about sharpening a chain then why not drop one off at the local garden machinery centre - It might cost as much as half of a new chain cost but still cheaper in the long run.

    In respect of 'kick-back' - one major cause of this is operator confidence as much as any other factor. Respect of the saw is essential but If an operator fears his machine then accidents are more likely.
  • My chainsaw use is seasonal, mostly for logs with some pruning etc. I find that if I'm using the saw properly i.e. oil topped up, correct chain tension, avoiding dirt and stones etc that I'll on average I get up to about 5 - 10 hours sawing between sharpening. This is even when I'm cutting olive which is very hard. I use the correct sized rount file in a guide, both of which are very cheap. I always use Oregon chain. They cost about £20 here and I've only bought one replacement in three years.
    Yes, chainsaws are probably the most potentially dangerous tools you'll ever use. My comment on safety would be to read the manual that comes with the saw as safety is usually the bulk of the content. Yes, you need to be confident whilst cutting and handling but never let you mind wander or allow yourself to become distracted. There have been thousands of serious, even fatal accidents with chainsaws but also millions (or more) hours of usage that are event free. Kickback can be avoided altogether if you keep the safety advice in mind. If you want to see how NOT to use them, check out a new series called "Axemen" (I think) on CH5.
  • PRO
    There are many chain saw sharpening videos available on YouTube

    ...here are a three


    ...and


    ...or you can automate it.

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