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Curved Fencing

Hi All

 

I have a client asking for a curved fence which sounds easy but has proven to be a challenge. I am trying to do it as a close board fence but obviously they go in straight lines. I have contacted a company that make bespoke curved fence panels but as ever it was deemed too expensive. My plan now is to do a curved close board fence. To do this I plan to fill in the gaps between the front face of the arris rails and the back of the feather edge with a piece of 2x4 with a curve cut out of it, that mirrors the curve of the desired fence. This way the feather edges still have something to nail into, see the sketch below. The crosshatched area where the 2x4 with a curve cut out will sit, fixed to the arris rail. Does anyone have any better suggestions or tips with this?????

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Replies

  • PRO

    That’s going to be a lot of hassle for minimal gain. Why not ‘threepenny bit’ the fence with shorter arris rail spans ?

    • well the featherboards will be being niled into empty space otherwise. and yeah I explained that our fallback could be it looking a bit like a 50p around the curve.

      • PRO

        What’s the radius of the curve or is this just for 2 spans ( if so what’s you proposed panel span 1.8m, 2.4m, 3m or 3.6m ? )

  • 4x2 will not give you much radius even at 6 ft posts centers do you know what radius you want

    i supose steem bending the arris rails is out of the question 

    • well I'll make a curve template that'll tell me what size the gap will be so i can get the right timber size and yeah no change of steam treating

  • I would say you will need short spans or the size of the rails you need will get silly. If you use 4x2 horizontally it will be prone to bowing in the middle - shorter spans will help there too. I would rather use one piece of timber for each rail rather than 2 fixed together although i may be wrong on that. If I was doing something like this I'd get the wood cut and then tanalised afterwards. It's an interesting job but one you'd be learning as you did it. Unless the fence is going to be viewed mainly from above you would have to say the 50p effect is not that terrible, especially with shortish spans. This looks like a case where someone has an idea but doesn't want to pay for it. The bespoke company are expensive for a reason. So should you be if you do this.   After writing this I just googled some images and I have to say (unless this is a very short fence) that you are getting way too complicated. Short spans will give a good effect. Possibly it would be better with vertical slats that don't overlap rather than featheredge.

    • PRO

      Hi Josh 

      Great to see someone applying such a creative solution , my only contribution is to ask where is the back of the fence going to be situated from the customers point of view and will any woodwork which achieves a curve / near curve be aesthetically pleasing to the customers eye where they have to look upon it ?  

      Reason i ask is i have known occassions where even simple back rail has caused offence where a fence is too close to a property (  resulting in non payment ) if this is the case i would point it out before proceeding to cover yourself and also consider costing in some screening contingency to try and soften any backrail i.e simple trellis for climbing plants in extreme cases . 

      • PRO

        if you use fresh green wood you can get a light curve just by bending under pressure. 

        Its probably not exactly what you are looking for this is a part boarded low fence curve

         

      • well the back of the fence will be on the client's side so that we can grow climbers up wires that i'll screw into the posts, across the arris rails. 

    • yeah i would use one piece per span, having a bigger span/less posts will make the gap bigger and therefore easier to fill in. yeah your basic 'i want the world but I don't want t4o pay for it'- therefore theyll get a labour intesive fiddly but cheaper solution.

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