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It could be the uneven surface of the soil or just the the blade needs a sharpen and balance or the blade could be upside down.
Lawn looks poor quality, mossy and very wet.
Would also suggest that maybe mower blade is blunt or engine is running slowly - or you are trying to cut too short for the conditions.
Assuming this is the first cut this year, the grass will have toughened up during the winter, a bit longer in places and tufty, which means it is essential that the blades are sharp and the cut isn't too low. As the mower is not self propelled, it is also important that you do not rush the cut. I would also recommend that you upgrade to a commercial mower ASAP.
We won't be starting our regular cutting programme for another couple of weeks - the ground is very wet and the recent cold weather has held the grass back.
Hi Rob, I agree with the other comments it is really blunt, get a new blade, sharpen the old one then you always have a spare sharp blade ready. Is the mower picking up the cut grass? A good pressure wash of the bag can make a big difference to the air flow.
A lower quality mower should still be able to cut the grass ok. As Dave suggests, the blade could well be upside down...... something I'm sure everyone has done at some point. Incredible how a petrol mower can be sold at £120........ if it lasts a year, it's a good deal. Is it new?
Thanks for the replies guys.
I bought it around October, and used it for about a month sporadically before the colder wetter weather set in then havent had it out before this cut.
As I am starting from a position of low funding this was the best mower I was able to get at the time.
I have taken on contracts now and feel that I should probably move onto a better more professional machine.
Is it worth me hiring a mower to maintain the contracts until I can afford to get a good one.
I am looking at this one here, as I will still be making a profit even with the hire costs.
https://www.hss.com/hire/p/rotary-lawnmower-20-petrol
Is this more suitable?
Thanks,
Rob
Hi Rob, don't give in yet, do the things suggested here and maybe also see if you can increase the revs a bit...it might work just fine for a good while then you can save the hire money for a good one in future. Decent 2nd hand ones also come up not just online but trade ins at your local dealers.
I started seven years ago with a mountfield mower from B&Q which lasted a year a qualcast strimmer that lasted a month and worked from my car. If you need the work use what you can afford and get better tools as soon as you can. As said get the blade sharpened every two weeks it only costs a tenner at my dealer and if the ground is soft push the mower rather than use drive. Keep plugging away,you will get there
Sharpening the blade yourself should not be too demanding.
The advice I have picked up over the years is disconnect the spark plug lead so it cannot possibly start if you flick the engine over turning the blade. When you tip it on its side have drain plug down, air filter up. Put an edge on the blade, but don’t feather it down making it razor sharp, as the edge will curl back over making it instantly blunt.
Respectfully disagree- I say make it as sharp as possible. Grass isn't going to bend it over. Just don't put too much heat into it. The best thing for sharpening is a carbide sanding disc, about 60 grit, on a firm backing pad on an angle grinder. They cut cool and fast as the abrasive is self sharpening. You can even follow 'step up' mulching type blades accurately. Put a fairly acute angle on it, but get the edge as sharp as possible.
I'd agree that if you keep trying to file it down you might end up with a burr, but professsional sharpening tools as described above mean this is not an issue.
I'd put my money upon the blade being totally blunt, or on backwards. Where in the UK are you? Someone on here might be close enough to have a look.
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