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I'd say its probably a carburettor problem..... particularly as you say the high speed screw doesn't make much, if any, difference. I'd give the carb a good clean through......... use one of the aerosol carb cleaners which should disolve any "gum" in there. Ideally, blow through the stripped carb with some compressed air.... if you haven't access to a compressor, perhaps you could use the compressed air for pumping up tyres at your local garage. There is a fine mesh filter in the carb which could possibly be blocked. When I'm stripping something like this down, I always take pictures of all the dismantling sequences which can prove invaluable when you can't remember which way something goes!! You can get servicing kits for these carbs which includes all the washers, diaphragms etc..... about £15 I think though I bought a genuine one from a dealer in USA for about £5 including postage. Just type in the carb type into Google..... its stamped on the side...... and you'll come up with quite a few sellers.
Anthony why don't you just take it to fr jones to have a service rather than mess around with it yourself. Their services are reasonable prices.
I almost did just before Xmas, but i like to fix things myself if i can, i find it satisfying and for simple fixes a lot cheaper! Ive yet to really delve into a 2 stroke engine, as so far nothing major has gone wrong, he says, touching wood! while work is light, im happy to learn the machinery maintenance 'on the job' so to speak.
I need to change the front pads on the Transit, i'll do it myself as i enjoy it, in fact i have changed my own brake pads as needed on every car/van ive owned ;-)
Steve Sonic Grounds Maintenance said:
Quite agree with you Anthony.......I also find it very satisfying when you do the work yourself + you will save a considerable amount of money!! I've found with somethings, lfor example the gearbox drive to the rear roller on the large Honda/Kaaz mowers.... the dealer can charge £2-300 for fixing a fairly common fault with this item..... do it yourself for£75. This time of year, there's usually a bit of spare time and its a good opportunity to do this sort of work and learn a few things at the same time.
Anthony @ JDC Maintenance said:
I guess it's all down to how busy you are at this time of year and whether the finances stack up ?
We have to show machine service logs etc for SafeContractor etc and consider it easier and safer to have the safety net of prompt dealer repairs and their access to service manuals, parts lists and availability of spares plus we get 'warranty' on repairs. The people we use (Stihl Agents) carry most items in stock and get next day on anything unusual.
For our set up (..and I know it can vary), it keeps the guys out doing what they are good at and not fuffing around trying to find where that last bolt goes ;-)
All I am saying is don't always go for short term gain (ie initially cheaper). If the items continues to to fail etc, then it's your work that's suffers and aggro ensues
If the adjusting the high screw is having no effect on running then its likely there is a problem with this circuit in the carb. Its possible that the screw could have been over tightened prior to adjustment and has damaged the seat. Its easily done.
Come to think of it i didn't think many stihls had adjustable carbs.
Personally Anthony, although its nice to know how your tools work and how to fix them, I would rather leave it to professionals to fix. Not only will it be an expert fixing the tool, you will get a guarantee of works and the chances of it going wrong again are very slim. This means that you spend more time on the tools and less time fixing them.
This also frees you up more time to do other things on your business. Advertising, invoices, bookkeeping etc etc etc.
As far as I know, most, if not all of the newer carbs have "stops" built in so you can only do very minor adjustments. With the older stuff, you can completely undo/screw in, the adjusters.
briggsandscrapem said:
So, spent a few hours messing about in the garage with said machine. First, cleaned up as much gunk as possible from outside with carb cleaner and then pulled carb.
Some parts had gaskets that were very well stuck, so i didnt attempt to remove them as i dont have spares if they got damaged/torn
Everything back together and started her up with no trouble, no improvement on the high speed stumble unfortunately, but on the plus side, the tick over is better and running on part throttle is smoother.
Also while looking for carb info i came across the Zama website which was very useful for getting the correct repair kit reference numbers for the carb, in this case the body type is C1Q and the model number is S130A
http://www.zamacarb.com/prod_lookup.cfm
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