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Stihl KM130 won't disengage

During the season, I noticed that the hedge cutter attachment on my Stihl KM130 would not disengage. Obviously, blades continually running can be quite dangerous. I read the manual and  it states:

"Turn the idle screw (LA) slowly counterclockwise until the cutting attachment stops rotating and then turn the screw about another 1/2 to 3/4 turn in the same direction"

I did as it suggested and this resulted in the 130 not ticking over. In fact, in order to stop the blades moving, I had to turn the idle right down. I did some research online and a common suggestion appeared to be change the clutch as this may have been damaged and not disengaging. I have just done this and there is absolutely no difference. I am now at a loss as to what to do. I don't really want to take it somewhere for repair as I feel that this should be a simple fix. Has anyone experience of this problem? If so, did you fix it, or, did it have to be sent off for repair? What was the diagnosis?

Thanks.

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  • PRO

    Try reducIng throttle cable tension. Adjustment screw On top of engine near carb. 

  • invariably caused by a clutch problem............. usually the spring(s) are broken. I've had this problem on a strimmer recently. Do the shoes move freely on the pins? Did you replace the springs?............. if they've stretched/weakened this could be the cause  

    • I have just put a new clutch on - part number 4180-160-2000. Have I missed something else associated with the clutch. When it warms up I will adjust the throttle cable tension.  

      • thats all you need.   Did the shoes move freely on the pins? 

        • To be honest, I didn't try. being brand new, I assumed they would. Is it worth stripping down and checking?

          • I'd take it apart again, clean up any rust etc on the pins and check the shoes move on them freely.   Does the idling speed seem high? If you can't get the speed down sufficiently without it stalling, you might have to strip the carb down, squirt carb cleaner through all the channels/holes and replace the various gaskets etc etc............. mind you don't lose the tiny spring inside by the metering valve!!  You can actually pick up complete replacement carbs from China for about £20 on Ebay including postage......... the ones I've used have surprising been ok!! 

  • Does the tickover sound faster than normal if so see if you adjust the high jet (can be awkward ), if it is running fast for no reason you might have to get a repair kit for the carb as the rubbers might have failed.

    • Tickover seems fine to me.

      Graham - when you mention pins, I was initially confused as I didn't see any. However, I have just been out and looked at the old clutch and the pins are within it. I have put the new clutch in without pins and simply bolted it on _ I think this may well be the problem. I will sort it out in the next couple of days - too cold to be in the workshop tonight. I will let you know how it goes. Thanks.

      • The "pins" are the 2 "rods" that the clutch shoes swivel/move on........... maybe your clutch comes with everything assembled.... spring/backing plate/shoes........ I guessed maybe wrongly you just got the "shoes" on their own     If the idling is ok and the clutch is ok, I'm beaten!! 

        • I think you are correct. The clutch came on its own. Due to me ordering a couple of carbs, one which was on back order, the items only arrived the other day, 3 weeks after removing the clutch. I forgot that the pins and backing plates were on the old clutch. I will put it all on in the next couple of days and hopefully all will work - thanks for the advice.

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