Hi all, hope this is in the correct thread.
So i've had some BG86c blower problems recently. Long story short, i've replaced the carb with a genuine Stihl carb as my previous one wasn't priming, everything was fine once replaced but on full throttle after around 15-20 seconds the blower would cut out. It would start again straight away, but again full throttle cut out. After googling it said it's probably over heating or the fuel filter is clogged, (didn't think it was the filter to be honest) but I replaced the ignition coil and the fuel filter. Now everytime i start the blower when it's cold, the pull cord is quite stiff and won't pull all the way, (which didn't happen before) it takes quite a few pulls for it to get going, it stutters quite a bit like its struggling to get going, the pull cord retracts very quickly, but once it does get going it runs fine, then sometimes does the same thing trying to get going again. I didn't have the tool to measure the gap between the ignition coil and the flywheel like youtube suggested, so i just by eye. I've altered it a few times just to see if that was the problem, but still the same thing. I took it to my local repair shop and asked him how far the gap should be and he said it looks fine. He said the wires leading from the ignition coil have a few littles slits in the sleeve where you can see the copper wire, so to tape them up as it could be shorting out? Honestly i don't think it's this but i'm going to do that today anyway just to eliminate something else. Has anybody got any clue what this could be? Also to stop the blower i now have to keep my finger down on the stop lever, where as before I just pressed it down. Not sure if this is related but it's different. My apologies for the essay. TIA
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Replies
Use a piece of cut plastic milk bottle to get the space right between the ignition coil and flywheel. The flywheel could be the problem. There's key on the flywheel that shears off and knocks the engine timing off. You have to remove the flywheel and realign it.
Get the flywheel off is tricky. Strip down both sides of the machine there's two opposing compression nuts you have to loosen the one on the fly wheel side. Use a punch and hammer to gently slide of the compression nut, there's a centre point the punch goes, becareful not to damage the thread. You need two pairs of hands for this ideally one to tap the drive shaft the other to hold the flywheel. Unless you've got a puller. If you get it off OK, you should see a grove in the drive shaft where the worn out flywheel key aligns. Its worth removing those screws behind the flywheel and putting them back with tread lock because they can vibrate loose, which can damage the flywheel. First and last flywheel I brought was £90. Have a look on YouTube there maybe videos.
Replace there wiring you've probably worn out the kill switch. If it is a flywheel problem stop yanking the pull chord so hard, thats what shears of the flywheel key. I've had three bg86 they get a bit unreliable after 4-5 yrs. They all still run, one I gave to a neighbour. Still got the other two, but replaced the previous with a husqvarna 525bx more comfortable to use and a bit more powerful.
Thank you for your replies. As it happens, i just re-alligned the ignition coil slightly just to get it slightly closer to the fly wheel as i noticed one side had a bigger gap than the other, and fingers crossed it's been ok today so far. It does still stutter slightly on the odd occasion so i'm going to replace the wiring as i think that maybe the problem, but so far it's started up easier and you don't have to yank the pull cord as much. Thank you for taking the time to reply.
I just use a couple of pieces of paper for the gap and then just rotate the flywheel to ensure its not rubbing anywhere. I set it up when the magnets are pulling the coil onto it with the paper as a sandwich between the two..................holds everything nice and tight while you tighten things up.
You're welcome.
Im glad you got it working again.
I am assuming you checked the crankshaft main bearings aren't collapsing? They are a stupidly common failure on these and the three blowers I have exhibited similar symptoms (start/die or rough/lumpy running/hard to pull recoil)...
I had one that ran for a month or more with a collapsed bearing one side it would cut out intermittently and act like it had seized till it cooled down.
Sell it and buy a new one. Mine went like that I messed about with it still didn't work. Not worth the hassle.
Hmm,had a couple of these,and yours is sold as the 'pro' version,which frankly it isn't.It does have an a.v.damped handle,which is where most problems emanate from.Because the handle floats and flexes the wiring loom tends to break either within the handle-or v.often where the wiring meets the main body via the handle.Frankly,jf you just want a cheap handheld for summer clearing,try a makita 4 stroke model-a hundred cheaper than the stihl version,and given its 4 stroke characteristics,no need for a 'damped' handle anyway.
I’ve had two BG86s and they both only lasted just over three years, just long enough to pack up just outside of the warranty. I then switched to the stihl BGA 100 battery blower. I would never go back to petrol.
It’s the same with the Stihl petrol hedge cutters. These tiny little petrol engines seem to have a limited life span. There is so much to either wear out or go wrong. The Stihl carbs seem to need replacing far too often.
The battery ones are much simpler with brushless motors that just keep on going. They really are far superior.
The best way to align the coil is with any ‘Business Card’ that people/traders give out. They are the correct thickness.
In my experience, once the BG86 starts to give trouble in one area, it’s had its life and every other part is close to failing. So it’s often not just one problem to fix, but several.
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