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In your 'distance apart' photo is the unhealthy one the closest to the camera? This one looks more grey than the far one that looks furry and brown. This suggests it's drier on top which is where all the action is. Do you water them from the top? Does this one get more sun?
Also the poorly one looks like some of the young fronds have gotten frost bitten. I've just moved a mature tree fern into my garden (from a nice warm garden in central London) and all the new growth got caught out by a frost a few weeks ago.
Hello Benedict
Yes the unhealthy fern is closest to the camera, I would say that both ferns receive an equal amount of sun, approx 3 hours per day when it does appear!
The younger fronds that look frost bitten appeared 2 weeks ago and have subsiquently gone black, I cant recall frost over this period to date.....
I'll take some other images to give a better insight to both plants.
I do water from the top and drench the entire tree every couple of days when hot, I've been told to feed them with a tomato feed, of which I have'nt done as yet.
Thanks for your time today.
Poorly
no takers on this subject?
wheres the rhs elite?
Contrary to popular belief tree ferns actually develop a root system of sorts in the ground, and as a consequence are more likely to thrive if removed from their pots and planted in a humus rich free draining medium. They will absorb more moisture that way, and coupled with you keeping their trunks wet may become more healthy. The wetter they are the better they are! A good rich mix of leaf mould, compost and soil will help. Not too much direct sunlight, wind etc will also help. Good luck.
Kerry
I wonder if your tree ferns are being battered by eddying wind swirling over the wooden structure (shed/fence?)
The height of the fronds in relation to the structure makes me wonder if they are being burnt or drying out?
Is the poorly one more exposed to wind or cold draught than the other?
Hi
Sincere thanks to you all for sharing your knowledge.....for the Dicksonia Antartica to gain any kind of shape, I understand, will nor occur over night.
with your assistance I can now begin to nurture the fern.
Thanks again.
Kerry
I don't know where in the country you are, but tree ferns are absolutely non-hardy in the UK. I had a customer put in about 30 of them, I don't even want to think about the cost. They were planted in heavy clay, in a frost-prone area. Despite being wrapped in a child's t-shirt each (I kid you not!) they all died in the 2010/2011 winter. He's still wondering what to do with around 30 dead stumps.
We had a significant frost only a couple of weeks ago, and with the height of your plants and the fence Phil pointed out, I'd still have them indoors myself. I don't like the idea of wrapping them, I've seen straw and bubble-wrap used, as I'm not sure it'll really keep the worst temperatures out. Plus, if it's a warmer winter you will be liable to fungal infections. I think they have to be indoors over winter, and taken in overnight at this time of year if there's a frost or severe winds forecast.
Just a thought, has anyone ever tried growing ordinary ferns on top of a dead tree fern trunk? I might have found a way to make a client very happy!
Paul McNulty said:
Consider where they grow naturally - a forest/woodland glade with dappled shade, plenty of moisture and lots of organic matter and fallen leaves. We shoe-horn them into a small pot up against a fence in full sun.
I would advise a drip irrigation system to moisten the trunk everyday. Plant in as big a pot as possible - they are big specimens you have there - in ericaceous compost.
Liquid feed with a dilute balanced fertiliser periodically through the year, not tomato feed. A balanced NPK is best, they aren't going to flower or fruit so I don't know why tomato food is being encouraged.
I grow cyathea cooperii, dicksonia fibrosa and dicksonia squarrosa and they are wrapped in fleece in the winter and I manhandle them into the kitchen in bad winter weather!! Dicksonia Antarctica will survive down to -5degC but will need protection below that.
As for why one is better than the other - is one of the (stainless steel) pots getting hotter in the sun and baking the roots? How about you swap them over and see if it perks up?
Kerry,
We have been involved in importing, handling Tree Ferns since 1995.
For our own business, we have imported whole containers of them, 200 odd plants, from 60cm to 3.5 metres tall.
Through our experience we hope that we can help you with this.
When we receive a delivery, we always hard prune all of the old growth around the crown. We do this for the reason is that Dicksonia antartica can sometimes "funnel" new growth through a restricted crown.
Being a Fern, Dicksonia antartica will always prefer a shady, moist aspect.
Dicksonia antartica do not require potting. For example, we potted our 3.5 metre ones into 110 litre pots, and they took 2 years to root around. Our 120cm we left un-potted, on a tree line, with drip irrigation in the crown.
Watering the crown, the top 60cm of a Dicksonia antantica is the key. Feeding wise, any dilute liquid tomato feed works through the growing season.
Protection - is a myth that Dicksonia antartica needs protection, from commercial experience they will take below -15, if over 90cm. If you do feel the need to wrap and protect, bubble wrap or straw the top 60cm in November.
Hope this is of help.