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  John Cooke June 21, 2012 at 7:17am

  If the cambium layer is not damaged all the way around (ring barked) then the tree should still be able to transport water and nutrients. Acer seems to be very delicate though and it may suffer die back.

    I don't think painting or strapping the wound does any good so it's probably just a case of wait and see.

  Not sure that's much help, Mick, sorry.
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  Mick Gammage June 21, 2012 at 7:22am

  thanks for your help anyway John

  i will check when i get to the job this morning if the bark is damaged all the way round, I don think it is but I will double check first

  
  I know Acer's are very delicate and that's why I was asking for advice, we had dug all the way round with a 600mm bucket before even trying to lift the tree complete with root ball to move to a temporary position to be replanted once the work is completed
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  Paul McNulty June 21, 2012 at 7:55am

  I did exactly the same to a bay tree in my own garden, and it hasn't recovered well over two seasons now. It only started growing over the last couple of weeks, having looked pretty sad so far this year; I'm guessing that the third or so of the bark that was damaged caused a lot of stress to the tree, on top of it being moved at the wrong time of the year (it was in August!).

  If the damaged bark came off in one piece it's possible to graft it back on, if not I'd definitely not cover the wound, but would clean it up to remove loose bits and rough edges. Mulch it well, water it well and keep your fingers crossed!
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  Mick Gammage June 21, 2012 at 8:09am

  Thank you paul, the bark is damaged just on the side shown on the photo and is still intact on the rear side so fingers crossed
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  Dave Sewell June 21, 2012 at 9:04am

  Bad luck Mick!
  I'd carefully pare away the torn bark at the lower part of the wound to try to prevent water sitting in it. Probably a nothing but I'd try it anyway!  I'd also water copiously. Acers hate being moved when they're in leaf so keeping it hydrated is essential. On a positive note they are actually quite tough when they want to be.

  Cheers,
  Dave
  www.the-gardenmakers.co.uk
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  Phil Voice June 21, 2012 at 9:45am

  I agree with the others Mick .

  Acers do hate being moved and this specimen looks well established so keep an open mind on die-back or it surviving at all. Keeping the wound open to air and light will ensure a strong callous grows around the damaged area.

  It might not be practical but I'd also consider shading the tree with a thin horticulture fleece as it recuperates to deflect the sun from the leaves (unless you've planted it in a shady area of course).

  What arrangement do you have with your client about responsibility in respect of survival of the transplants?
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  Mick Gammage June 21, 2012 at 10:16am

  Thanks dave
  The owner of the house is back from dubai today so i will wait for him to return then tell him what you advised to do
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  Mick Gammage June 21, 2012 at 10:24am

  Thanks phil
  The home owner is a best friend and was very open with what could be saved and knows i would of tried my best with the removal of all the bushes and trees, worse comes to worse and it does not survive he will buy a new acer, all the area around the extension is being re landscaped anyway once the building work is completed
  
  It was sited in direct sunlight but at the moment its shaded by a 16 ft high conifer hedge
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  Pip Howard June 21, 2012 at 11:16am

  Dave Sewell's advice I'd agree with - have had to deal with similar, but is not work you can guarantee. Using a very fine sharp 'scalpel' blade remove the loose bark. Strap a bicycle inner tube or similar at bottom of the wound - but only temporarily until you are sure the tree is to survive one way or another - don't prune, don't feed and don't move until winter time. Best of luck
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  Mick Gammage June 21, 2012 at 8:49pm

  thank you Pip