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hi I had the same frustrating issue a few years ago when trying to make 1 good machine out of 2 bad ones, think a special tool maybe required, or there is threadlock somewhere in the rotating shaft assembly to stop it coming undone, can't quite remember how I resolved it, maybe by swapping over the whole end which doesn't help much in your situation I must admit, its almost like its designed to stop you repairing it yourself
Only guessing here but is the new gear a replacement part from Stihl or a used part salvaged off a machine ?
If it's off Stihl it would suggest it's meant to be replaced .
Guessing again as I only lubricate my gear wheel but is it similar to removing a mower blade where you can jam something against the blade to stop it rotating when removing , perhaps if you could jam something in to stop the gear cog rotating or like Billybop suggests you may need a special tool .
Bit like a bike crank you need a crank tool to remove them or it just spins .
Thanks John, yes I have tried jamming up the cogs so they don't move but it's proving very tricky to hold everything tight enough to stop it moving and now I'm in immediate danger of burring out the drive bit on the screw! It is a genuine stihl and very expensive cam part so it must be replaceable..I will keep going and look for a tool too. Thanks
Okay thanks, well at least I know I'm not missing something really simple. I have read a few comments on a YouTube video with several people who have had similar issues removing this screw! I think it's doable, just maybe has a particular knack or like you say a special tool
just a thought and maybe totally barking up the wrong tree here, but if threadlocked in maybe a hot soldering iron held against the screw would help release it
I will give it a go! Thanks
Success! For anyone that comes across this problem in the future. An impact driver is a must. I actually ruined the driver bit in the screw head so had to cut a new slot in the screw head with my dremmel. Then I opened the blades as much as they could go and put the shaft of a hammer in between the blades to lock it. Then a quick reverse buzz with the impact driver. It's a normal threaded screw so in reverse should just unlock. Maybe cutting the slot in the screw somehow loosened the threadlock too although I didn't see any on the screw thread. I think I might make my first YouTube video on this to help future folk.
Thanks all!
I know you've sorted this now but in the future. Before you loosen any of the blade screws, move the blades so that the slots in the blades align to form a circle. Then put one on the cover screws in the closest circle, head first. This will prevent the gears from turning while you undo the screw. We have used lots of HLA 65's and generally once one part starts to wear, all parts wear including the con rods and the holes on the ends of the blades and they just get sloppy. That's usually the time to replace it. Regards, Darren
interestingt the way the gear wheel is only worn on one side. Looks like he never greased it judgiung by how clean it is.
I have noticed the grease dries out on mine in no time but after possibly over greasing a couple of weeks ago machine is sounding louder than normal and blade is vibrating .
Could this be a symptom of over greasing and how much grease is enough grease on these machines ?