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  Rob Bamford November 19, 2009 at 8:17pm

  Thanks Steven, perhaps I'm overreacting as it looks such a mess considering it is so young?
  
  Steven bowers said:

  The small piles of mud are caused by worms,I have had this kind of problem..new lawns can get very wet as it takes time for the imported soils to bind and to let water drain...the brown patches you can get at edges of turf or on joins...its nothing to worry about, but with the water logged area just go over with a fork.. i think that should do it!
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  Kieran Ray November 19, 2009 at 9:01pm

  A lawn won't look at its best for 2 years after laying aparently, and that's with the corecct care. I wouldn't worry too much just fork the boggy part and if your that worryd about the brown patches reseed them. Wuth the worm casts just brush them off before you mow otherwise they turn into the perfict area for weeds to start growing.
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  Neil Petrie BSc Landscape Mgt November 20, 2009 at 11:57pm

  Rob,
  
  Just another thought to help you in future. Just keep an eye out for levels, drainage, soil type etc before and during work. You shouldn't really have boggy areas in a new lawn if the site is drained properly. If you feel drainage is a problem beforehand make some suggestions as to how this can be alleviated. A bit more money in it for you and a better finished product for them.
  
  We laid a lawn at tail end of summer there. It had one cut then it's last and it looks fantastic now (of course didn't cut it too short). Client delighted with it, his neighbours and family delighed with it. Since then fenced his front garden and rotovated front lawn, and scheduled in his driveway for doing in next couple of months too. Just waiting to get the right weather for preparing the ground at front to turf now. It looks more like a place pigs roam just now!! At least they got a nice new fence to hide it a little for now!
  
  Getting back to the prep for new lawns though just keep drainage in mind and don't forget to suggest if you feel necessary.
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  Robert Dulson November 21, 2009 at 10:33am

  Hello Rob,
  
  The success or otherwise of a lawn will very much depend upon ground preparation, particularly with regard to drainage. Your 'wet and squelchy' comment is my main concern - is this just the case after heavy rain of does it seem to be persisting after a few days of drier weather (I recall we did have some a while ago!!). Rob, pop out to a garden centre and buy Dr Hessayon's 'Be your own Lawn Expert' book, this will tell you all you need to know and will cost about £7. The Hessayon 'Expert' books, of which there are lots, are so good, I'm a professional landscaper and still refer to them frequently. My email is robdulsongardens@tiscali.co.uk just in case you wanted to ask anything, Good luck, Rob
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  Rob Bamford November 21, 2009 at 5:51pm

  Thanks again for the comments.....
  
  The wet corner takes a lot longer to dry out than the rest of the lawn put it that way, there used to be a shallow concrete slab for a garage on there which the customer dug up. In fact he levelled the site as he had access to a mini digger. We levelled it again within the time/money constraints we had.
  
  The fact there was little budget to play with impacted on the quality of the job (customer was made aware of this so fortunately it doesn't look bad on me), I guess what I'm really after is damage limitation ideas!
  
  I have seen those books at my local garden centre and I shall invest, thanks for the tip!
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  Caroline Littler November 23, 2009 at 2:18pm

  Wet areas with dead leaf material on top sounds like a perfect habitat for worms, and although part of the natural soil eco-system the casts are not particular attractive! What do people think about using Sulphate of Iron for discouraging worms? As I understand it, it lowers the pH at the surface and as worms dislike acid conditions it drives them deeper therefore discouraging them from making worm casts. I've read that the application rate is 8g/m2 every 4-6 weeks. Anyone got any further info? Not sure how expensive it is though so if working on a tight budget it may be preferable to brush the casts off as suggested previously.
  Also goes to show how important it is to make sure the client knows they will get what they pay for so well done Rob for making the customer aware of this!
  Hope you can sort it for them.
  Regards, Caroline
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  Graeme @ BGS November 23, 2009 at 2:43pm

  Yes sulphate of Iron can be used to discourage worms but you must be careful that you don't over dose. I would suggest checking the pH level before treatment and then again over a regular period. (Worms prefer a higher pH).
  
  See http://www.landscapejuice.com/2007/01/controlling_wor.html for more information on controlling worms in lawns but to be honest I don't know of many people these days who want to go the chemcial route. A quick brush off before mowing is usually sufficient.
  
  Be wary of using excessive iron treatments on clay based soils see http://www.pitchcare.com/message/message/13541
• PRO

  Stephen @ SJS November 23, 2009 at 4:53pm

  Drainage most certainly will be an issue, you may need to put in a soakaway in the lawn preferably at the wettest point, carefully removing the turf & digging down a couple of feet if poss, fill with rocks & then level out replacing turf. One thing about the wormcasts is that if possible sweep off when dry as has been mentioned earlier in thread.
  
  Cheers
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  Dan Frazer Gardening November 23, 2009 at 5:55pm

  What area does 10l cover Paul?
  
  
  
  Pro Gard said:

  I use Iron sulfate quite regularly both to discourage worms and subsequent badger damage and to prevent moss and improve color. Most often I apply at a dose of 250g to 10 liters.
  
  As has been stated it is imperative to keep tabs on the PH levels.