Ok, so my BR600 is just over a year old and as far as im aware runs perfectly, while doing the usual air filter and plug change, thought i may as well check the valve gap as Stihl recommends.
The machine has been used a fair bit, but by no means daily and quite often not for a week or so, as i have a hand held for smaller stuff etc.
The inlet valve needed the smallest of tweeks while the exhaust was much looser and needed approx 1/4 turn to tighten sufficiently.
Now i dont know if they werent quite equally set correctly from new but the machine was running fine, just as it always has, but as a heads up to everyone else, its definitely worth checking as its very easy.
For example with my KM130r (used purchase) it was awkward/difficult when pulling the starter rope, as sometimes it would seem to catch while pulling and yank the machine off the ground and on to its side. I was none the wiser at the time, but at a later date while doing a service i decided to check the valves (first time id done it) and they were both very loose. When i came to start it, the rope pull was clean and smooth and it started instantly! ive since read that poorly adjusted valves on a 4mix engine can cause, among other issues, the exact problem i had experienced with the rope starter.
HTH some one
Anthony
Views: 8322
Replies
Cheers
interesting. thanks
Hi Andrew, adjusting the valves is very easy, nothing to stress over at all.
With the KM130, once you have the plastic shroud off, the metal valve cover can been seen on the top of the engine, held on by one screw. Carefully prise this up/off with a flat blade screwdriver, go easy though so as not to damage the cork gasket, it will likely remain stuck to the cover and can be reused.
Turn the engine by hand using the metal starter cup, this is to get the valves in a position where neither are being operated, if you turn the engine over this way several times, watching the valves move, you will understand what i mean. Removing the spark plug makes turning the engine much easier as then there is obviously no compression in the engine to overcome. Then using your feeler gauge, either the Stihl example specifically for this job, or one of your own, but you will need to trim the end if using your own so it can fit in the small gap available.
Use a spanner/socket to gently turn the nut on top of the valve, clockwise to tighten, you wont need to move it much, so small increments and then recheck the gap, should be 0.1mm when cold. Once happy, turn the engine over a couple of times and double check the clearance, and your done. Replace valve cover blah blah.
The blower is exactly the same, except there is an extra plastic shroud to remove and you will have to disconnect the two wires from the ignition module to be able to do so.
See attached files which i have found very useful for home servicing.
andrew magill said:
http://youtu.be/yN5BWxXo1cc
http://youtu.be/Q11tqx4lqLg
hi anthony many thanks for your reply look forward to giving it a go