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Mowing domestic lawns is the most important income stream for me. all day every day in the main.Since 2009 I have been running 2 Viking 19 in roller mowers.Been a good investment but the roller assy requires frequent replacement, about twice a year which is not so bad as the complete kit is less than £50 and it only takes me an hour to fit. But after 5 seasons (2.5 for each) there are signs it's time to think about replacement.So to the question.. Would the drive,(gearbox roller assy) on a Honda HRD536 21" roller mower last for at least 3 years of 8 hours a day, 5 days a week use in all weathers with no discernible depletion in performance. I say this as I understand the replacement cost in a mower shop would be approx £500.. Less if I do it myselfbut I don't know what is involved as of yet..The equivalent cost of the Viking over 3 years is approx £300 to £350 but it's the hassle of tapering performance (slower speed harder work need to push up an incline that gets me down after every few months)Your experiences much appreciated.

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  • The drive system on Hondas doesn't fade or get sluggish, but it obviously can just fail as I'm sure you know. I doubt you'd get 3 years full time from one without at least one roller bearing and gearbox repair, but it's impossible to say.

  • I had a Viking 19 and changed to a Honda HRD 21 this is what i noticed, in no particular order

    I think more because of the wider cut the Honda is quicker so you may have to only do 7 hrs a day!

    The Honda is a lot heavier and less maneuverable so that hr you saved will be spent at the Physio especially if you do a lot of small lawns!

    The wet collection is nowhere near as good on the Honda as the viking. The viking was amazing

    The build quality of the Honda is miles better than the Viking

    The starting and reliability of the Honda is in my experience much better than the Viking

    The re sale value of the Honda is much better so perhaps you should look at selling them after a year so you have a warranty at all times? My 5 year old Honda HRX sold for £400, the three month old Viking 19 sold for £350.People love Honda but don't really know the viking brand as well, i think

    I don't know if the gearbox would last as long as you need it too bearing in mind the amount of work you do! Mines two years old no problems at all so far but i don't cut all day every day. I'm thinking maybe one more season max. Incidentally The Honda HRX 19 inch roller domestic mower lasted 5 years without any probs apart from dirt in the carb. That included falling out the back of my pick up and rolling off down the road when it was about three weeks old!Amazingly it was fine no damage. Its much slower than the Viking though no good for you

    I prefer the Honda always starts always works. My Viking had loads of problems.You might find the wet collection frustrating on the Honda after the Viking. I don't have cut in the wet.

    Someones going to suggest an Etesia but it sounds like you need stripes

    Hope this helps!

  • PRO

    Whether you go for Honda or a derivative (such as Danarn/Shanks/Lawnflylte) there are two areas you should review immediately which improve wet weather pick up;

    1/ Out of the box, most Honda GXV's/GCV's etc are set @ 2800-3000 RPM. Honda manual states max power achieved at 3600 RPM, with max torque at 2600 RPM.; So room to speed up, increase walking speed and have better collection without stressing engine too much

    2/ Look for after market blades from Oregon etc which have either 2/ larger blade wind tips thus creating more lift an/or 2/ look for solid blade wind tips.

    All original fitment blades introduced to reduce noise, so you may need to perform a Risk Assessment and decide if hearing defenders are required.

    We have have a number of Danarms, never had problems with gearbox (but not say will we never have issues...), problems mostly self abuse by guys ('dropping' last few inches to ground/breaking wheel carrier). Always said it how you use them, clean them and the soil/mud/dust conditions you use them on......

    Simply love the Honda engine's 'one pull to start' ability even when it's been sitting at back of Unit for a number of weeks

  • Good tip about engine speed and aftermarket blades. I would also add that keeping the bag clean with a jet wash helps enormously as the holes block with dirt which stops the airflow and hinders collection. I'm gonna look for some Oregon blades now!

  • I get solid wing tip blades from eBay at about 15 quid for my danarm and increased spring tension (and therefore revs) right at the start and it collects fairly well in the wet.
  • Thanks for the comments.
    Ross,
    you are spot on about the wet collection it is a very important element plus all your other comments are very true and need to be considered. Out of interest was the preset speed of the Honda noticeably slower than the Viking ?

    Gary
    I purchased a derivative when Kaaz took over the basic design from Honda back in 2007 or 08. It was a 19" Sarp but I think it was then identical to all the brands you mentioned with just a different badge. Back then the drive didn't last very long at all plus the metal brackets supporting the front wheels would bend with the slightest knock, ended up looking like a set of Ducks feet as they were splayed out so far. And I consider myself very carefully with all my equipment.

    I think the 21in had a stronger bracket on them from memory so the problem would have been reduced or eliminated. I wonder if you are aware of any improvement to the gearbox design from the very early models.
    Do you use a modified blade on your Danarms or is the standard blade sufficient to provide good wet collection. Actually I recall the wet collection was not bad with the standard issue blade.
  • PRO

    +1 Agree.

    Depending on Honda Engine, engine revs is either spring tension, spring hook hole or hidden screw (Torx) adjustment)

    3000-3200 is a good compromise, either checked with a small hand held digital Tacho or an after market service tacho indicator.


    Dan Frazer Gardening said:

    I get solid wing tip blades from eBay at about 15 quid for my danarm and increased spring tension (and therefore revs) right at the start and it collects fairly well in the wet.
  • The new Honda Pro's are not as good as the older ones! If and they will eventually go, the drive mech is flipping expensive to fix.

    Personally, I still believe the Hayter PRO 56 is a cracking machine and unless the lawn is particularly rough, gives a better cut.

    Trick with the Hayter is to increase the RPM, easy task but worth replacing the B&S standard spring with something a little more robust. Fix high lift blades and keep then sharp and of course a clean grass box. Result = Excellent cutting ability fry or wet and faster mower times. Repair costs / parts are considerably cheaper than Honda.

    Finally, keep one of the Vikings for a spare / rougher cut mower.

  • PRO

    Gordon, we use the Pro Kaaz/Danarm 21" models (we have 4 of them) and 1 of the 19" Kawasaki engined models. Wheel carriers are cast aluminium. Had no major drive / gearbox problems (...yet). We use ramps in/out vans now. We use Red Gator style Oregon blades

    Pro models have decent ali wheels and bearings, good front bumper, steel deck liner and additional handle supports. I also like the 'gravitas' of the Danarm.

    We've been thru loads of options and realise no one mower/make is 100%, but a wise purchase & some TLC should see you pick a good mower.

    Life's to short to get into a P*ssing contest over Who's got best mower because we all operate differently

    GORDON said:

    Thanks for the comments.
    Ross,
    you are spot on about the wet collection it is a very important element plus all your other comments are very true and need to be considered. Out of interest was the preset speed of the Honda noticeably slower than the Viking ?

    Gary
    I purchased a derivative when Kaaz took over the basic design from Honda back in 2007 or 08. It was a 19" Sarp but I think it was then identical to all the brands you mentioned with just a different badge. Back then the drive didn't last very long at all plus the metal brackets supporting the front wheels would bend with the slightest knock, ended up looking like a set of Ducks feet as they were splayed out so far. And I consider myself very carefully with all my equipment.

    I think the 21in had a stronger bracket on them from memory so the problem would have been reduced or eliminated. I wonder if you are aware of any improvement to the gearbox design from the very early models.
    Do you use a modified blade on your Danarms or is the standard blade sufficient to provide good wet collection. Actually I recall the wet collection was not bad with the standard issue blade.
  • I honestly cant remember if the viking is quicker in a straight line. I think it probably was, when it started that is! All i really remember is that when i bought the viking i did the lawns quicker than with the Honda HRX and then when i bought the HRD i did the lawns quicker still.
    I think my revs are pretty much std and ive never tried the Oregon blade but will now!

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