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  Dan Frazer Gardening April 3, 2012 at 5:26pm

  What's going to happen to the new turf once laid? I suspect 1-2 seasons from now it will be complete moss cover again.

  These lawns are always tricky to return to grass. I would expect a proper drainage system installation to be the only way of getting to the root of the problem, which then needs to be followed by either returfing (incorporating lots of free-draining material into the subsoil) or going through the motions of moss treatment.
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  Andrew Poyner April 3, 2012 at 5:33pm

  Dan. Thanks for your reply. I think you have confirmed to me what I originally thought? When I looked at it yesterday I thought that grubbing out and complete re-installation following sufficient drainage would be the answer. Cheers!
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  Chris Auld April 3, 2012 at 5:37pm

  I would agree with Dan, we get loads of enquiries like this. People just think that if you come out and re turf their lawn it will be fine, but a year later your back to square one! You need to advise the client to get a proper drainage system installed first, otherwise they are just wasting their money.
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  Andrew Poyner April 3, 2012 at 5:42pm

  Thanks guys. Excellent and speedy advice. LJN rocks!
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  Phil Voice April 3, 2012 at 5:46pm

  Hi Andrew

  I agree with Dan and Chris. 

  I would also make sure that any hard pan layer is shattered using a rotovator. I've replaced lawns in the past that have been waterlogged but on further exploration it's been discovered that there's an impermeable layer creating a perched waterlogged layer and underneath a perfectly free draining soil.
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  Andrew Poyner April 3, 2012 at 5:54pm

  Cheers Phil

  When I tugged at the moss it came out like it was a lambs wool! Underneath the ground was solid. I wll know advise and quote accordingly.
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  Nic Johnson April 3, 2012 at 7:26pm

  I find that when going to price these jobs I give advice for free!!! price for the correct way and advise on the best option is which is often more expensive and low and behold I dont get the work because the client has gone for the cheapest option however I often advise on keeping the cost down and seed rather than turf as i think in the long run a well prepared seed bed and seeded lawn will give a better lawn in the long run. Drainage is the key I would always rotovate and work with what soil you have add topsoil if needed
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  Claire Brown April 3, 2012 at 8:32pm

  let her know she'll be the only one with a green lawn this summer, as moss stays green when you can't water! - lol
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  Nick @ NM Garden Services Ltd April 3, 2012 at 9:14pm

  
  The hard pan could have been caused by a rotovator in the first place. I suggest that if it were to be relaid that it would be slitted and then rotovated or vice versa.
  Nick
  
  Phil Voice said:

  Hi Andrew

  I agree with Dan and Chris. 

  I would also make sure that any hard pan layer is shattered using a rotovator. I've replaced lawns in the past that have been waterlogged but on further exploration it's been discovered that there's an impermeable layer creating a perched waterlogged layer and underneath a perfectly free draining soil.
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  David Cox April 3, 2012 at 10:39pm

  If you can get hold on one (there are small ones for Alpine tractors) Try Subsoiling / vertical tilling the lawn - Basically this is a big vertical iron bar about 4ft long which slits along the lawn breaking up any Hardpan / Plougpan and really helps drainage and aeration. Its often used on waterlogged meadow land over clay soils to avoid the same problem you have. Combine this with scarification, overseeding and good regular care and you may be able to control the moss.