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  Steven Whitaker August 29, 2010 at 12:16pm

  Hi Paul, thanks for the advice, it does have a DPM which is above the level of the beds, but there is a cellar too which is very damp due to the water table and the fact that the soil level has been raised on the north side of the house - we intend to excavate to the original level. I am really feeling that these beds should be removed completely even though they could be very pretty!
  
  Pro Gard said:

  The house probably lacks a DPC and or DPM under the floors, the flower beds certainly wont help and I doubt the masonry paint on the stone will either. Has it ever had a chemical damp proof course injected, what did the survey find?
  
  I reckon you probably need some proper advice from a few damp proofing firms so as to get some pointers even if but I would certainly get rid of the beds and ree build them away from the walls were it my house.
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  Jackson's Landscape Design August 29, 2010 at 12:25pm

  Hi Steven
  
  Any property that is pre 1920's probably hasn't any damp course at all.
  
  I would tackle this project in such a way so that the planters can remain in order to incorporate a planting scheme:
  
  mark the existing soil levels
  
  Remove all soil and stock pile, wire brush all debris from the vertical surface of the cottage, dry the surface using a propane fire torch.
  
  At the very base of the building I'd dig a 200x100mm deep footing and apply a 200mm strip of concrete making sure that the finish is with a steel trowel only, as you really need a surface that is smooth.
  
  Apply 2 coats of Ruberoid primer or (black jack), with a brush making sure the house and the 200mm concrete strip is completely covered, allow to dry.
  
  Next take the Proofex 3000 bitumen membrane and cut off strips from the existing soil level markings to the base of the house without forgetting to include the 200mm concrete strip, should you just allow the house face to be covered with the membrane then the chances of water getting in at the base is very high, hence the reason for the concrete lip of which must also be covered with membrane.
  
  Peel back the membrane paper and adhere 100mm to the markings of the soil level, apply pressure with a wall paper seam roller or equivalent, peel back the paper and blast a quick shot of heat, flame form the gas torch to the walling and membrane............be careful here as the membrane will stick like shit to a blanket and you'll never unpeel should the membrane touch itself.
  
  Apply the membrane to the walling and concrete lip making sure you trap no air at all, when applying the next strip make sure you overlap by at least 250mm.
  
  Refill the planters with stock piled soil , choose you plants and plant them in.
  
  good luck
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  Ofer El-hashahar August 29, 2010 at 1:33pm

  Hi steven,
  
  I have professional, 100% proof solution for you for next 20-30 years at least.
  I use in this occasions welded tough pvc liner .
  they are hand welded to size. and there is an element for drainage too.
  
  We use it a lot in wooden boxes for planting on roof gardens.
  Down size: will take fewweeks to get it, price- not cheap solution.
  positive side: you know that you can sleep well at night- no one can complain on your job.
  
  These liners are very durable material, and the welding is water proof, we used it as well to ponds and pools.
  
  It is long time that I wanted to offer this service in here but I guess anything got it's time.
  
  It is actually something that can be useful to many of us.
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  Steven Whitaker August 29, 2010 at 9:28pm

  Thanks guys, we have just had the roof replaced, and all of the guttering, so the penetrating damp and leaking roof are sorted, I just feel like all of that soil piled against the stone would be much better removed, and the raised beds demolished. The whole lot can then dry out and we can use the stone to build some walls in the back garden.......