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PRO

Mulching - the options ?

What's people's view about "mulching" using :

 

- bark

- composted woodchip

- shredded wood

- green woodchip

 

We've been directed to mulch using what I call 'green' woodchip (ie recently created from tree work) by our client.

 

The problem I have is that the area includes a newly planted whip hedge run of 90m.

 

I always understood it was bad practice to mulch newly planted shrubs etc using this material as it is too acidic or rich as it has yet to break down properly and actually takes nutrients of the soil to aid its decomposition.

 

I would like to use at least composted (at least 6 months old) woodchip as a compromise. However, client's adamant - as they want 'that' fresh look.

 

Help me win this please or put me right.....

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Replies

  • PRO
    I think that's true for real mulches, but I'm sure I remember that green mulch was considered counterproductive...Nothing's simple !!
  • PRO
    Always understood that any green mulch would leach nitrates from soil when decomposing and then release the nitrates when it was fully decomposed.

    I suppose it's all down to how nutrient rich the soil is to start with.

    I'm not sure on the effects on the pH but am guessing ( and it is a guess ) that it will increase the acidity of the soil as I think this generally occurs adding any organic matter.
  • As green waste decomposes it is 'broken down' by bacteria, these bacteria use up nitrogen and create acidic conditions, thats why its good to add lime to compost heaps (to neutralise the PH levels). I suppose the same would apply for woodchip decomposing, although i doubt it would really effect the nutrients levels in the soil to the extent it would harm the plants. You could always just throw a handful of growmore down every now and again to compensate for any nitrogen lost.

     

    Tip of the day: Urinating on your compost heap provides nitrogen for the bacteria to aid the decomposition process!

  • PRO
    You taking the p**s  over your tip of the day ?   ;-0)))
  • Lol, good one Gary.

    Gary RK said:

    You taking the p**s  over your tip of the day ?   ;-0)))
  • The only problem is that it costs twice as much Paul, i use well composted woodchip about 90% of the time. Ive only ever had a few people complain about it, mainly because the chips were not 'uniform enough in size'. Diseases like honey fungus can persist in the woodchip however which can be a problem.

    Paul @ PPCH Services said:

    I personally would never use shreded wood as it often has particles of formica and or screws in i know one of my clients who bought a load cheap for a horse areana and then had to pay again to get shot of it!

     

    Not a fan off tree surgeons waste either as it often sprouts fungi, I always tend to use and spec  proper pine bark bought lose from a local fence suplier who makes his own agricultural posts. The bark resulting from the  peeling of them.

  • green wood chip uses nitrogen out of the soil to decompose. i would only use some mulch that is already decomposed which would then add nuitrients and the worms would do there bit to incorporated it to the soil beneath

     

    other alternative if they want the fresh look would be to put terram down and mulch on top treesurgeons chip tends to grow tree seedlings though and composted mulch doesnt due to the temperature when composting makes the seeds unable to germinate 

  • Gary I would not use newly chipped mulch as i believe it removes nutrients though t initial decomposition process, cant remember exact word for it but it is realy better left pile up for a few months before used.

    If you do use it I think I read to use addition of amonia nitrate to combat negative affects caused (only going by what I read)

  • PRO

    I was always under the impression don't use freshly chipped green waste chippings like many but here is the section from what rowly found.

     


    Concern:

    tie up nitrogen and cause deficiencies in

    plants.

    Wood chip mulches will

    Evidence

    have demonstrated that woody

    mulch materials increase nutrient

    levels in soils and/or associated plant

    foliage. My hypothesis is that a zone

    of nitrogen deficiency exists at the

    mulch/soil interface, inhibiting weed seed

    germination while having no influence

    upon established plant roots below

    the soil surface. For this reason, it is

    inadvisable to use high C:N mulches in

    annual beds or vegetable gardens where

    the plants of interest do not have deep,

    extensive root systems.

    : Actually, many studies

    Concern:

    termites, carpenter ants, and other pests.

    Woody mulches will attract

    Evidence:

    are not attractive to pest insects but are

    actually insect repellent. For instance,

    cedar (

    which repels clothes moths, cockroaches,

    termites, carpet beetles, Argentine ants,

    and odorous house ants. In general,

    termites prefer higher nutrient woody

    materials, such as cardboard, rather than

    wood chips.

    Many wood-based mulchesThuja) species produce thujone,

    Application


    Let wood chips age before using

    them if there are concerns about disease.


    Personally, I have never done this; I

    happen to love the smell of fresh wood

    chips and enjoy spreading them out over

    the landscape. Additionally, some of the

    nutrient value (particularly nitrogen if

    the chips contain leaves or needles) will

    be lost in the composting process. Using

    fresh chips ensures that some of the foliar

    nitrogen will feed the landscape rather

    than the compost pile.


    Before installing wood chips, create a

    thin underlying layer of a more nutrientrich

    mulch (like compost) if there are

    concerns about nutrient deficiencies.


    This “mulch sandwich” approach is

    a logical one that mimics what you

    would see in the mulch layer of a forest

    ecosystem. It’s not required, though, and

    over time a wood chip mulch will develop

    this same structure as the lower layers

    break down.




    ROWLY HILL said:

    Out of the library and into the "Lions den".

     

    Anyone got any scientific back up to confirm how  green mulch sucks Nitrogen out of the soil? Is this myth or is their robust scientific substance to that claim?

     

     I'm not a  scientist but who's to say and I'm speculating here, the bacteria breaking down the mulch really source their N from the air rather than hoovering it from the rootzone. As I mentioned earlier if the mulch was incorporated it might - but it isn't.  The immediate surface maybe.

     

    Ok that's me ready to be shot down in flames but here's a good link ref the subject of Mulches by a ladee with a PHD.

     

    Enjoy - all you mulchers:-)

     

    http://www.puyallup.wsu.edu/~linda%20chalker-scott/horticultural%20...

     

    I'm going to hide now :-O

     

     

  • the nitrogen cycle and a biology lesson when any plant matter dies it then decays/decomposes to help it along it uses denitryfying bacteria to help the plant matter decay and returns nitrogen to the atmosphere the bacteria use the nitrogen as there energy source to break down the plant matter and if theres more available ie the top of the soil the wood chip is laying on the bacteria will utilize that and the decomposition will occur at a greater rate

     

    It is not a mith its a well known fact theres only so much nitrogen and it cycles from being in the atmosphere to plant nitrogen fixing and uptake to plant death when its released by the process as mentioned above.

     

    anyone believe me know i studied up to A level Biology

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