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Grass only roots to a very shallow depth. Lay it on gravel and the turf is all it will have to live on. 20mm is even worse, all the moisture and nutrients will be flowing away through it.
Recipe for disaster!
New lawns can be laid on sand, I don't think you will have any problems removing the membrane and tillering the chips into the soil. If the soil is poor, introduce a soil conditioner before tillering and it should be fine to lay the new lawn on.
Nope. Remove the gravel and membrane lay 2, 3'' fresh top soil sand mix and lay the new lawn that way. Least that way your lawn will more likely to last.
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Carry out the job properly or not at all.
Many thanks for all advice - I was feeling like this was a bad idea - but just wanted to reassurance to trust my instincts! So I shall recommend the gravel is taken off site and spec the usual for a new lawn!
Thanks v much
Good for you Amy. Specify the correct way, should the client then be looking to save a few quid on the job, then option 2 would be to remove the membrane and rotavate the shingle into the ground as has been mentioned. Laying direct onto shingle? - no.
Amy Perkins said:
Thanks Colin, I think the client will go with what I advise, they had just been told this method by someone else, so wanted to see if you could do it!
Lets just remember here, we are talking 20 mm ( less than 1 inch) gravel.In the past I have rotovated this amount into the soil, then applied 2 inches of topsoil onto the firmed base, re-firmed the soil and still have a lovely sward of grass.
Laying grass on top of gravel with a membrane underneath is not a good idea, drainage would be great but there is no soil for the roots to grow in and it would be impossible to walk on or mow. Turf needs at least six inches good drained soil to establish well rooted lawn. Turf given a chance will root deeply but can survive on about 4inches. I would remove membrane and still incorporate the gravel but mix it with top soil