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Lawn Mower Engine Oil

What oil do most people use in their lawn mower engines, SAE 30 or SAE 10-30, mineral or synthetic?

Also assuming you use the SAE 10-30 do people buy lawn mower specific engine oil or use automotive 4stroke oil from any car spares shop?

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  • PRO

    Rule of thumb;

     

    If a B&S engine, especially if an old model - straight SAE30.

     

    If a modern high performance engine (ie Honda/Kawasaki) - Multigrade 10W-30.

     

    For hydrostatic drive oil in ride-ons, we tend to use makers product (ie Etesia)

     

    Engines manuals should state requirements. We buy normal auto oils. If the grade (SAE/AAE) numbers match then it doesn't matter generally the make. It's not like they're turbo'd and need the superior performance of semi/full synth oils.

     

    We change regularly via a strict service schedule (we drain by turning engine to the correct side or use a vacuum bottle for the last bit. On the bigger engines on the ride ons we also flush once a year.

     

    'Lawn mower' oils are so expensive by comparison, partly because they're sold in small bottles and the dealers mark it up.

     

    I use our local auto factor's brand. Considerably cheaper than Halfords

  • PRO

    as gary said for old types of engines use a bog standard sae30 its possible to use in modern engines but will not always give the same lubrication to it as modern engines have differnt running temps this is were you get the differnts in the operating grade of the oil which is basicaly the oil  the max temp the engine gets to before the oil burns and minimum temp the oil can get to before it is to thick for the engine sae30 is if you like a summer oil used in conditions were there is not temps below freezing and 10 w 30 is like a winter oil for use in very low starting temps,

    it is a bit more to it but to be honest it get very boring going deep down,

    take a look at the chart for almost a conversion if you like for sae oils and the best operating temps

    SAE Viscosity Chart (High Temp)
    100° C (210° F)

    SAE
    Viscosity

    Kinematic
    (cSt)
    100° C Min

    Kinematic
    (cSt)
    100° C Max

    20 5.6 <9.3
    30 9.3 <12.5
    40 12.5 <16.3
    50 16.3 <21.9
    60 21.9 <26.1

    Winter or "W" Grades

    SAE
    Viscosity

    Low Temp (°C) Viscosity cP

    Kinematic
    (cSt)
    100° C Min

    Cranking
    Max

    Pumping
    Max (NYS)

    0W 3,250 @ -30 60,000 @ -40 3.8
    5W 3,500 @ -25 60,000 @ -35 3.8
    10W 3,500 @ -20 60,000 @ -30 4.1
    15W 3,500 @ -15 60,000 @ -25 5.6
    20W 4,500 @ -10 60,000 @ -20 5.6
    25W 6,000 @ -5 60,000 @ -15 9.3

     

    in hydro box oils its the same principle but depends compleatly on the way the mower is set up

    at etesia we use hv46 hydro oil for the 124 and 100d range and 20 w 20 auto oil in the mvehh but the bahia range used to be 20 w 20 which has now been changed to 10 w 40 oil as its better for the weather and working conditions we have over here

     

    in a nut shell the best thing you could do for your mower what ever the brand, is find a engine op book or spec sheet online which takes seconds on a quick google and stick by that or if you have an etesia mower give me a shout  

    Gary RK said:

    Rule of thumb;

     

    If a B&S engine, especially if an old model - straight SAE30.

     

    If a modern high performance engine (ie Honda/Kawasaki) - Multigrade 10W-30.

     

    For hydrostatic drive oil in ride-ons, we tend to use makers product (ie Etesia)

     

    Engines manuals should state requirements. We buy normal auto oils. If the grade (SAE/AAE) numbers match then it doesn't matter generally the make. It's not like they're turbo'd and need the superior performance of semi/full synth oils.

     

    We change regularly via a strict service schedule (we drain by turning engine to the correct side or use a vacuum bottle for the last bit. On the bigger engines on the ride ons we also flush once a year.

     

    'Lawn mower' oils are so expensive by comparison, partly because they're sold in small bottles and the dealers mark it up.

     

    I use our local auto factor's brand. Considerably cheaper than Halfords

  • PRO

    Briggs & Stratton Web site oil recommendation dependant on temp range:

     

    SAE 5W-30 recomended for temps below 5c (! - unlikely to be cutting below that temp..?)

     

    Oil Recommendations

    Oil weight chart

  • PRO

    Colin,

     

    Getting a bit of an Anorak here....

     

    Agree, their engines are so agricultural, I reckon you run them on old chip oil. Make you hungry tho !!!

     

    Their guidance is a bit contradictory, see below:

     

    http://www.briggsandstratton.com/engines/support/how-to-articles/Pu...

     

     

    ""To optimize engine performance, use Warranty Certified Briggs & Stratton Small Engine Oil. Briggs & Stratton offers a Synthetic 5W-30 oil that provides the best protection at all temperatures as well as improved starting with less oil consumption.

    For optimum performance, you should change the oil in your small engine after the first five hours of use and then annually, or every 50 hours of use (whichever comes first).

    • Use Briggs & Stratton SAE 30W Oil above 40°F (4°C) for all of our engines.
    • Check oil level regularly.
    • Air-cooled engines burn about an ounce of oil per cylinder, per hour.
    • Fill to mark on dipstick. DO NOT OVERFILL.""
  • Thanks everyone, i have some SAE 30 lying around somewhere but i shall make a visit to my local motor factors tomorrow for some 10-30 and a spark plug ;-)

    Ive checked the Honda manual online and they recommend SAE 10-30 anyway, so the Etesia should be happy with the new fluid.

  • Bought the oil but was suprised to find at the local motor factors that the recommended 10w-30 oil is not available in the UK any where apparently, unless youre buying mower specific stuff from a machinery specialist that is, maybe thats why its expensive!

    Bought 10w-40 instead

  • Paid £6.50 for 1 litre semi synthetic, manufactured by 'Comma'
  • PRO

    Yeah, its a slippery subject....

     

    Both Castrol & Motul still do 10w-30 and is easily available in any motorbike shop or motor factor. In fact I have some Honda 10w-30 bike stuff sitting here in our Unit. Costs us about £14 per 5L or see here (ie ~£2.80/L) :

     

    http://www.directcarparts.co.uk/product/90/xps050/carlube-engine-oi...

     

    Sounds like they where trying to shift what they had, but its no problem - your oil just has a slightly higher temp usage range (and maybe fractionally more expensive.)

  • Funnily enough i did notice some motorbike oil that was 10w-30 but it was recommended for high revving engines for obvious reasons and was considerably more cost wise!
  • PRO

    Yes, that would probably be fully synth stuff. I used to use in my VFR400 - revved to ~14k.

     

    Look for normal mineral oil and the prices drops (ie as shown in last post). We buy a 5L worth a couple of times a year from local motot factor (Eurocarparts). Cheap, does the job 10w-30 should do.

    Anthony Toop said:

    Funnily enough i did notice some motorbike oil that was 10w-30 but it was recommended for high revving engines for obvious reasons and was considerably more cost wise!
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