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PRO

Etesia pro46 belt change

Can someone enlighten me as to the procedure for changing the drive belt on my pro46 (2005 model)

I have the new belt, the one on the machine looks cracked and worn, so want to swap it before it fails!

Ive searched LJN forum and Google but cant find any decent instructions on the procedure, i dont want to start dismantling without some sort of idea of what i should be touching/undoing etc

Yes, i could get it done by someone else, cost isn't the issue here, i would just like to do it myself :-)

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Replies

  • PRO

    Done it, not the correct way im sure, but due to some rusted nuts and lack of info, i bodged it! new belt on, bit of oil down the end of the drive cable sleeve, both ends, and voila :-)

  • I’ve exactly the same issue but with my Pro51k, is there any advice you could share with me please?
    • PRO

      Its been a while and i cant recall exactly what happened, but i think all i did in the end, was to loosen the bolts holding the engine to the body. which allowed me to tilt it just enough to remove the old belt and gently lever on the new one.

      Sadly that machine has since been stolen, but it seemed to work just fine up to that point, which was back in Spring 2016

      • Ahhh I like it, outside the box n all that :) cheers fella
    • PRO

      for the pro51 its setup is different in a way because of the variable drive,

      remove blade then take of the cover underneath, you will see the drive belt tensioned between 2 small pulleys then runs to the rear transmission from the crank pulley (you cant see crank pulley as this is above the big blade break also do not try to undo the big 34mm nut as this is a left hand threaded bush which actually threads into the drive pulley.)

      take a photo of this alignment of the belt because if you need to leave the machine for any reason and come back after a few days you will forget how it lines up and this will cause problems with drive

      remove the blade drive belt

      use a 13mm socket to loosen off both of the small pulleys then release the drive belt from the tension system, once you have a slack belt you can remove from the transmission pulley (either by lapping it over by touch or by going to the rear of the machine and removing the transmission cover and remove belt from there,

      once off the transmission you can lift it to clear the blade break and then replace with the new belt reversing the above.

      etesia.co.uk under the recourses section will have pdf files on the parts list which will show the above via diagrams but it will all make sense once you open the machine up 

  • I’ve just finished changing the drive belt on my Pro51K, happy to share thoughts, etc. if anyone’s doing the job too.  Neil’s comments above were excellent and a great help. To be clear: (1) the bolt in the Center, once the blades removed, is the right threaded bolt to remove the pulley from the crank, (2) I used a piston stop to hold the piston still when undoing the bolt, although you’ll need a longer-than-usual one, (I understand stuffing a rag into the plug hole will work, but I had a piston stop handy so used that instead), (3) the new belt will be tighter than your existing one; I found it easiest to fit it to the crank pulley at one end, to the drive gearbox at the other end, then used the tension s-bend pulleys to tighten and fit it. I also used bucketloads of copperslip on all nuts, bolts, and the crank shaft, to help future removals. Hope this helps someone, and my grateful thanks to prior contributors for their valuable help :)

    • PS: remember to remove piston stop before trying to pull start it afterwards :j

  • PRO

    Good Points there Chris,

    just remember when using copper slip on crank shafts to apply it to the inside of the pulley / blade break systems etc and ensure the slip reaches no further than needed, copper slip will wear out the oil / grease seal of any shaft if it contacts it and this will cause a leak from the seal and possible engine issues etc later on so always be mindfull of where it is used and how.

    • Crikey wasn’t aware, thanks Neal :)

  • PRO

    Thanks guys for this topic. Just replaced the transmission belt on a 2015 Pro51x

    Just to add, to undo the central nut I managed to prevent the engine from turning by placing a screwdriver shaft through both clutch plates (large discs just above blade) preventing them from turning independantly. With the blade still on and the machine on its side, I wedged a block of wood beween the blade and the ground to jam the blade and with a socket set and easily removed the nut (normal thread). 

    Alasdair

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