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Does moss always = full renovation

Hi.

Does a mossey lawn always equal a full lawn renovation? 

Once you kill (or control) moss the customer is left with brown / black dead moss all over their lawn. So then its needs scarifying to rake it up, then usually a preseed fert, seed and top soil / compost covering. So a relatively cheap and easy moss control turns in to a full renovation. With the time and cost that entails.  With about 80% of the lawns ive seen so far this year they all seem to have some level of moss.

Does anyone recommend a way to deal with this withoutdoing a full renovation as detailed above? 

 

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  • PRO

    Not strictly the purists method but had customers who prefer not to use moss killer which discolours the lawn or just prefer an organic approach .

    I have used dethatching tines on a Stihl mm56 machine which literally pulls the moss out and a great deal of matted grass but unfortunately it's not selective and will remove healthy grass but with care and timing you can manage small areas.

    Can be thirsty on fuel if it's a big lawn and will leave lawns looking drastic initially after dethatching .

    You can then re seed or re turf but need to keep on top of the watering it's no good watering fortnightly on your next visits so this has to be factored in .

    Another method I have used with excellent results is applying mo bacter which eats the moss and promotes growth  and the lawn does not get disturbed or look unsightly , timing is important with mobacter , expect slow results .

    Another method I have used is to advise the customer to employ the services of a reputable lawn operative where time is limited and it can work out more cost effective and leaves you to get on with other jobs like weeding borders ,planting etc. 

    So much depends on your customers expectations if they are expecting lush lawns with bowling green finish , Thier expectations are probably unrealistic unless you are a dedicated lawn operative .

     

     

  • Gary,

    The method we use when the client does nor want a full renovation - spray pro kleen liquid iron at a dilution of 2.5 lts in 12lts water this will cover around 200 sq mts if you thoroughly wet the area. After 7 to 10 days repeat but with the addition of Chempak lawn green to the mix, we use 3 scoops using the supplied scoop.

    Wait 7 to 10 days and on a DRY day mow as low as your mower will allow the dead moss by this stage is light and fluffy and the mower will collect most of it, obviously it will not remove thatch but we are trying to keep costs down. Any bare patches would have to be seeded but considerable time/cost saving on a full renovation. Wait another 7 days and apply a slow release fert. The idea of the Chempack lawn green is that it is 39% N and will give the grass a massive albeit temporary boost and helps recovery after it has been scalped.

    • Thanks Peter

  • I think this will still come under repairing law and moss problems.  I've some lawns that are in a right state after winter... riddled with moss and lots of bare patches from the dry summer..I always use "Aftercut" weed, feed and mosskiller on lawns. The problem I have with it is it seems to stop new seed germination.  Aftercut does another fertilizer called  "Aftercut lawn thickener" which has no weedkiller in it but it doesn't kill the moss.. You can't win!   Anone a good recommendation for the best to use which will fertilize, kill the moss and allow new seed to germinate. 

    • Graham. These "all in one" products designed for joe public are crap they don't do anything well.  For moss buy pro kleen liquid iron - 2.5 lts in a 12 lt knapsack will do 200 sqmts it comes in a 5lt and is around £16 all in.

      For fert we use an equine product either Suregrow or Top Paddock they are just a slow release fert only one or two applications per season are needed, either brand will do 600 sq mts per bag, we collect at £25 all in per bag. They are both brilliant fertilisers and have used for years.

      As to weeds we spot treat with Praxys.

      No problem with reseeding with any of them..

      • Can I ask about those two fertiliser products please Peter? Do you have a preference for either? Also, what about the practicalities, such as do they need watering in quickly afterwards, do they stay on the lawn for ages or disappear fairly quickly, do they spread easily with hand held spreaders etc? Just trying to get a sense of them as looking for a new fertiliser this season, but not used one specifically targetted as an equine product before.

        • There is not anything to choose between them apart from Top Paddock has a higher sulphur content but you would not notice this in effectiveness, neither need watering in but the Suregrow does seem to disappear more quickly. If you asked me to choose it would be Top Paddock purely on the sulphur content..

          As to application we use a standard walk behind spreader. Top Paddock is a slightly smaller product but both spread easily. Any other info please ask.

          • Thank you 

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