Guys,
I'm sure you'll be able to assist here. I've fitting a deck with ipe (from Karl) in a circle raised above a patio and a lawn:
As you can see it sits between 150mm and 280mm above the lawn level and has a thin section that sits on top of the gabions.
Karl and his lovely wife had previously suggested putting a stainless steel 316 grade surround around the decking. The client doesn't want a sharp edge so we figured we could mount exterior ply to the frame, mount the stainless steel to it and wrap that steel over the top edge of the ply so as to give a rounded finish... Anyone done this before? We found a supplier of 0.9mm steel which I figured could be thin enough to manipulate.
The ideal solution for us would be to put a stainless steel wrap under the decking edge, but the client doesn't want to see the tongue and groove slots from the side profile.
Any one have any better ideas at how to finish the edge of this decking, perhaps not in steel?
Cheers all!
IMG_0953.JPG another angle of the same
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Replies
how about useing stainless as you say but put a profiled wooden beading around the top edge of the stainless to cover the sharp edge
we use 2 or 3 mm stainless its not sharp on the edge you can have the supliers dress it, just look for stainless fabricators on the web local too you.
you could put a ply edge down or just fix a bit of hardwood every 200 mm or so flush with the deck and fix the steel too that
Hi Daniel,
Stainless steel is not a particularly malleable metal so you will struggle to get a decent finish if you attempt to form it on site. An expert panel beater my be confident but I dont think it a good idea to have anyone repeatedly bashing the edge of your deck with a big hammer.
If you do want to try it yourself, copper is a much easier material to work with but even with that I would not suggest you try it for the first time on a customers project, you need to practice first.
If you are confident in your measurements a steel fabrication company would be able to produce a perfect fit with a turn over the top but it will not be cheap.
As suggested elsewhere a thick band of stainless with a machined edge is simpler but still expect to pay quite a bit for stainless as prices are high at the moment.
A practical solution that would be easy to carry out on site would be to mount short lengths of the Ipe vertically all around the deck and bullnose it with a router once it is in place.
The vertical ipe is the option that I am heading for, just need to convince the client. If I do it right I can bullnose the end before I fix it. I think this will look best overall as I'm still not convinced that the stainless steel will suit the location.
@Karl - thanks mate - love this product it was so easy to put down and make look good! The client will be ordering more soon to clad the outside of a new build office/gym and create decking for the entrance and hot tub surround! :) We'll be in touch!
Another quick one, aimed at Karl. Do you know of a supplier who will bullnose 3mm stainless steel sheets? The only place I've found doesn't offer it as an option.
And to all - how would you "join" the multiple sheets required together? Leave a seam, cover it?
Cheers Karl!
Hi Daniel,
On this project we used vertical decking boards to dress the carcassing beneath the deck.
It would depend upon the depth you have left on your overhang now as to whether this is a possibility or not for you.
Its rather time consuming getting the fixing points right, but it does provide a neat finish to the curves.
Hi Karl,
These are actually pieces of yorkstone that match the paving surrounding the deck so that firepits and the like can be used on the deck without damaging the boards and also to break it up to add some interest when the furniture and covers are removed..
There are more photos of this project in my photo album on my profile.
Curved deck with stone infill
They were laid in as we laid the boards so that the framing and the slab would run exactly parallel to the boards, slow but worth it.
Karl Harrison said:
We have discussed, in passing, using vertical boards, run through a table saw to create thinner strips and then dressing the top with a bead. The problem is getting the bead to a nice finish, in the same wood and still flexible enough to follow the curve.
This feels like a problem that won't go away!
Loving the decking there though Peter. How have you secured the slabs? Looks like the same slab as the patio?
you could also get your decking supplyer to cut the decking boards in haf so instead of being 38mm cut them down to 19mm then they would be more plyable to bend around the circle, they would then blend in perfectly without any sharp edges and would work out much cheaper, and you could stain them the same colour, personaly i wouldnt have stained the decking anyway i would have left it natural
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