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The vast majority of us will use a trailer of some description at least once during the week, if not every day.

There may come a point where the trailer that you currently use becomes unsuitable, or you simply need another one for whatever reason.

Not everyone can justify spending a lot of hard earned cash on a new trailer, so many go down the second hand route - but do YOU know what to look at when viewing a trailer?

Here's a few simple checks to make in order to prevent unforseen expense:

Wheels and tyres:

Trailer wheels and tyres come in many different shapes and sizes, from the common 5.00 or 5.20 x 10 to special low profile high speed extra load tyres. Prices vary for tyres from around £30 each to well over £130 each, so check them carefully for splits, bulges and the depth of the tread. If a tubeless tyre has been fitted with a tube, then chances are the tyre has sustained serious damage at some point in its life and is probably best replaced.

Wheels can be damaged by kerbing, being under or over tightened or the trailer being badly overloaded/abused.

A trailer I recently bought had 4 damaged wheels - all four had tell tale rust marks around cracks in the paint and could be heard to 'click' when rocked. The worst one (pictured) actually lost a chunk of metal from around the top hole in the picture when the wheel nuts were loosened.

Bearings:

If possible jack up the trailer and check for loose or noisy bearings - especially if the owner boasts about things like ' carries 3 tonnes easily' when the trailer is only plated for 1500kg....

Taper roller bearings require to be correctly adjusted and kept greased - although they are cheap and easy to replace if worn/damaged.

Some trailers have pressed in sealed bearings that might need a hydraulic press to remove - not everyone has one of these lying around so budget for paying a local garage to remove/replace bearings if this is the case.

Tow hitch:

Perhaps the most vital part as this keeps the trailer attached to the towbar!

Some trailers have built in hitch locks - if this is the case, is it present and correct or has it been smashed out? If so be wary as the trailer may have previously been stolen....

If the trailer is braked, grab hold of the coupling and try to shake it side to side and up and down, any excessive movement here means that the draw tube or bushes are worn - this can be very expensive to replace (only ever normally a problem on very high mileage or badly neglected trailers)

A badly worn coupling can make the trailer snatch and bang continually, something to bear in mind for replacement if it looks to have covered high mileage towing heavy loads.

The rubber gaiter on braked coupling hitches is essential to keep grease in and dirt out - if this is split or missing, then the draw tube will quickly wear or seize, potentially jamming the brakes on - or off......

Brakes:

If brakes are fitted, do they work?

Black grease leaking from the hubs indicate that either the brakes have been left on sometime or are sticking...

Trailer brake parts are very expensive so always assume the worst case scenario.

Does the handbrake work and hold - are the cables seized or broken, do all pivot points appear free and lubricated?

General condition:

Many used trailers have the odd 'battle scar' like a dented mudguard or ding in the head or side boards. Have a quick look at things like light lenses, number plate lights etc for condition and security - these will need replacing if damaged.

Kneel down on the floor and look straight down the trailer chassis - does the chassis appear straight or is it bent and twisted through overloading or abuse?

A badly bent set of loading ramps or heavy duty lashing eyes being fitted to a light weight trailer may be a giveaway that the trailer has been carrying more than it perhaps should have...

Plant trailers seem by their nature to suffer especially badly from this sort of issue.

Check the light plug - I always replace plastic plugs with metal ones as a matter of course - quick and easy to change, cost a few pounds more but don't wear out as fast as the cheap plastic ones do.

Chassis plate:

Is this present and correct and does it appear untampered with? Insurance companies require the chassis number for insurance purposes as well as it sometimes being needed to get spare parts. Be wary of a missing plate or ground out numbers on the plate or in the chassis as it may well be one of the many stolen trailers that are around...

Hopefully this brief guide may be useful to someone - don't end up fitting two new wheels, a tyre, numberplate light, trailer plug and a wheel bearing like I did by buying a trailer in a rush and over the phone!

My cheap trailer has now cost over£100 more than it should have done....