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Best Timber as Fuel for Woodburners

As I sit in my kitchen in my non centrally heated house bathing in 23.8 C (0.9 C and snow and gales outside) temperature produced by my new wood burning stove (1 Month) I reckon I have a big job ahead gathering and preparing enough fuel for the next year. In the past, the relatively little I needed for an open fire was easily gathered as a by-product of my work and I could be choosy about size and convenience. From now on it will be different and I already find myself driving around eying up trees with malice.
Wisdom of crowds
Since it is clear from a search that many on this site have a wood burner, can we update and confirm / disprove the various lists available on the internet, some of which seem a bit dodgy or at least just plagiarise other lists rather than being from first-hand experience.
For example elm is widely reported on these lists as having 140% moisture content, which must be wrong unless maths has changed since my schooldays! Are all wood from the Rosaceae family as good as claimed? Is Ash really as superior to almost all others as generally held to be the case.
Sort of info that might be useful would be which woods burn best and which woods give best heat and after how long a seasoning, whether they split better before or after seasoning, whether there is a best time of year for cutting etc.etc.
A couple of sites to give an idea of what is out there at present:
http://www.firewoodreview.co.uk/firewood-knowledgebase/articles/best-wood-burning
www.scoutbase.org.uk/library/hqdocs/facts/pdfs/fs315001.pdf

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  • Mature Beech cut in November had 50%+ moisture content, but split quite well. In the past I have been disappointed with beech as a burner, but most of this experience was based on a rotten tree that fell (but was harvested immediately). I don't know whether rotten timber is generally less good, but am beginning to think it is.
    Well seasoned leylandii is great for flames, but gives off poor heat.

  • Dry Ash is the very best

  • Logic tells me that an evergreen cut in Autumn would have highest level of sugars, whereas a deciduous tree would be pretty much the same whether cut in autumn or any time before it leafs up in the spring. Am I correct?

  • How long to season properly? Is one summer enough?

    chris nangle said:

    Dry Ash is the very best

  • Simply put - All wood burns when dry.
    The last 2 weeks my house has been heated by poplar and willow - both burn well and give good heat, last a good time and are fine... both are seasoned by 18 months.

    Burning wood at more than 20% moisture will tar and damage your stove and chimney and also cut the heat output as much heat is wasted boiling off the water.

    ALso the % water in fresh wood, is measured as a %age of the dry weight of the wood, so its possible for elm to be 140% moisture content, ie. for every KG of wood in a given sample, their is 1.4kg of water in it aswell... so 140% mc.

    Again, for an ideal sample, less than 20% mc, what you are aiming for is for every KG of wood burned you will be boiling off 200g of water.

    A good tip - Keep 3-5 days of wood in doors near the fire,,, by the time you come to burn you can often have the MC down to 5-10% and this significantly improves the efficiency of the stove, and reduced fuel use.

    TO be blunt the links above, spout an awful lot of tosh/rubish/bull about different woods, all woods burn when dry.

    A good indication of how much energy is in the wood, available to release when burnt is the density of the wood. Most woods will be between 300-500KG per cubic meter (solid).

    Oak tends towards 450kg-600kg depending on tree site etc, poplar 350kg-400kg depending on species, so their is obviously much less difference than many would have you think. That said, poplar seems to be harder to season and re-absorb water if exposed to rain...

    The following document is good reading, based on facts and not old folklore and hearsay as the above links are.
    http://nuke.biomasstradecentres.eu/Portals/0/D2.1.1%20-%20WOOD%20FU...

    Hardwood / softwood etc all makes little difference, density is key.

  • This is a useful little rhyme regarding firewood:

    Beechwood fires are bright and clear
    If the logs are kept a year
    Chestnut only good they say
    If for long it's laid away
    Make a fire of elder tree
    Death within your house will be
    But ash new or ash old
    Is fit for a Queen with a crown of gold

    Birch and Fir logs burn too fast
    Blaze up bright and do not last
    It is by the Irish said
    Hawthorn bakes the sweetest bread
    Elmwood burns like churchyard mould
    Even the very flames are cold
    But ash green or ash brown
    Is fit for a Queen with a golden crown

    Poplar gives a bitter smoke
    Fills your eyes and makes you choke
    Apple wood will scent your room
    With an incense-like perfume
    Oaken logs, if dry and old
    Keep away the winters cold
    But ash wet or ash dry
    A king shall warm his slippers by.

  • Thanks Chris. As you point out there are a  number of poems etc which purport to give such advice but I was looking for people to actually confirm, or otherwise, such received wisdom from their own experience.

    Chris Auld said:

    This is a useful little rhyme regarding firewood:

    Beechwood fires are bright and clear
    If the logs are kept a year
    Chestnut only good they say
    If for long it's laid away
    Make a fire of elder tree
    Death within your house will be
    But ash new or ash old
    Is fit for a Queen with a crown of gold............

  • The only problem with that rhyme is its 100% a lie and totally wrong,

    The only possible concession would be that ash Will burn when green, but would be a waste as you would get 1/3 of the heat due to the moisture it does contain, and would wreck your chimney!

  • we burn our oak off cuts ,and season for a summer when they are split down and stacked they come in fine and burn very hot,as David says they are very dense.

  • PRO

    I burn all sorts of wood but save the best wood with the highest calorific value for when it is really cold. Softwood (if seasoned for long enough) is excellent at getting a fire going and to give off heat quickly as it burns so fast. When the house is up to temperature i switch to the hard woods as they are more dense and burn for longer. My favourites are beech, ash, birch, holly and hawthorn. Holly and hawthorn weigh a ton even when dry.

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