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If you explained to customers the advantages of using Round-up, they may well reckon it's a good idea........ there really isn't anything else that is as effective for permanently killing of weeds like dandelions etc. . I'm surprised that you don't automatically include weed spraying in routine maintenance............... I've always got a cp Maxipro sprayer in the footwell of the passenger seat with Round-up and one of the first things I do when visiting a site is to carefully spot-treat any weeds in beds and hard surfaces. Results in minimal hand-weeding, the place always looks good + giving me time to get on with other garden work.
Kind of agree with Graham. There isn't much wrong with glyphosate, just the people who use it.
Re home made recipes, most i have seen involve a lot of acid in one form or another, thats gonna cause significantly more long term damage to the ground than glyphosate.
Re a spray ticket, if you are spraying chemicals for profit, you need a license, whether its home made, bought from b&q, or a specialist supplier.
Out of interest, why are you not fond of glyphosate?
I spent 8 years researching the effects of pesticides on the enviroment. My business card had Ecologist as my profession :) Roundup is incredibly safe for domestic gardens. Once dry on the leaves its safe for pets, wildlife etc. It binds with soil & becomes inactive.It's a different matter using it on food crops.
The back to nature brigade are so ignorant. I see countless people recommending salt, vinegar etc which have devasting effects on soil wildlife.
Paraquat is always mentioned as the great evil. We applied it to soil at 20 times the recommended rate, month after month, & it had no effect on soil fauna.
As per Graham... I have a 2 litre spray of Roundup on the go all the time, unless someone specifically says "no", even then I will try to persuade them. I'm just finishing the 5 lites of concentrate bought in 2019. I don't blanket spray areas anymore, unless it is very early or at sunset - then only if that is a demand from a regular client.
It is the only way I know to get rid of bindweed, ground elder etc from the base of established shrubs.
Personally I would use the Glyphosphate option, I use it very sparingly, spot spraying on Bindweed etc. Although I did use 10Lt yesterday blanket spraying curb edging on an estate & an area for re-development.
Have you tried a weed wand? It's years since I have used one, but this is another option. Just burn the top growth off although perrenials will regrow from the roots.
I use Roundup (specifically); in current formulations and adjuvants it no longer has a Hazard symbol / rating, but that may not be the case for other Glyphosate generics using cheaper and far more toxic adjuvants etc.
I do have an issue with it being sprayed on Wheat, just before harvest to make that harvest "easier" ... and then immediately grinding it into flour.
Thanks I ike what you are all saying, what should I expect to pay to get one of the guys trained up?
I think that by the time I'd paid for a night in a hotel etc (2 day course) it spoilt the look of £700
Hi James, There are a couple of non-glyphosate total weedkillers that are MAPP registered - one also treats moss but you will find they offer substantially less coverage and no translocation down to the root - so just a foliar burn off - but they may please the 'no glyphosate' customers...as others have said there isnt a near rival in terms of efficiency or safety (for the environment & operator). Home made alternatives are not tested, not approved, not safer and they are not legal to use in customer gardens...you're leaving yourself open to problems....
re: Training. Check out our PA1 training & exams - can be done totally online plus PA6 training via remote learning....plus we can arrange a PA6 asessor to visit you...
Regards
Richard
I would like to add an additional question to Jame's...
We use Round-Up Provantage. We don't specifically do it for profit (though the cost is built into our service of course), and we only use a 7L pressure sprayer to apply it in accord with the manufacturers instructions.We have always been told that for such applications we don't actually need a PA1 or PA6 licence. This has come from several sources. Are we still right in this, or should we now reconsider our position in the matter?
To additionally add to everyone else's comments, we have not found anything as effective as Glysophate, but it is is imperitive that it is sprayed properly and responsibly. We train and monitor our operatives in this, and we had one guy who just did not follow direction, so we stopped him using it. You can also add additives that inhibit re-growth at certain times of the year which we have found reasonably effective.
Thanks,
Richard
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