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Did they win the lottery by any chance ? Lol
Hi Dave. Sorry didn't mean to be unhelpful with my daft comment. I have not used hard wood for fencing just tanalised timber and installed 2ft down on the posts and in concrete which comes above the soil line. It will be fine to use them together but they will weather to different colours over time. Still make sure you go down same depth and that the concrete comes above to protect from rot. Also on the top of posts use caps and capping on the top of the slats. All of which will give longevity. I hope that helps.
Hi Tom, Lol no worries, your not far from the truth, the customer wants quality but still have a budget. I have done a fair bit of fencing and yes always do that with my posts although never put the capping along the rails I will definetly consider that.
Cheers Dave
You could use oak cladding for the feather edge boards. But rather expensive.
Would advise not mixings woods only due to colour changes over time, no issue otherwise.
Hi Seth, Thanks for the suggestion, I have seen oak feather edge cladding but given the exposed location of the fence I prefer to have something the wind passes through. The colour will not be too much of an issue, the customers will mostly just see the slats, the other side is countryside or other large gardens with trees and hedges.
Cheers Dave
I've use ordinary pine treated slats on pciket fences where they've been off the ground..... after 15 years, still as good as new. Treat the whole lot, posts, rails with something like Cuprinol... they even used to do an oak one........ and it'll all look the same. Don't get the Cuprinol that's like a paint that is just a surface coating... you need the solvent one that soaks into the wood.... looks much better and you don't need to keep redoing it every year or so.
Hi Graham, Thats a great shout and will definetly put the oak culprinol solvent suggestion to my customer.
Cheers Dave
Green oak will potentially shake (split) and twist , so mixing with soft wood would be a mistake. Oak at any size is readily available, but easier if you go straight to the mill. Let me know if you want a recommendation.
Sapele, or iroko are much better timbers for screens and they warp far less and offer a premium look. Green oak will always look rustic once seasoned. You also may have issues with tannins staining any paving below initially.
Also if using imported cheap oak - often Romanian, it just doesn't last and you will get a similar life to tanalised softwood. Slow grown english oak is far superior. Oak should also be golden yellow in colour. Its often cut too close to the outer cambium and is whiter in colour and ends up like polystyrene in a few years.
Tim
Hi Tim, I have only just used normal pressure treated timber on previous fences so you imparting this knowledge for me is great and really appreciated. I will check the source of the oak prior to buying, I do know the wood towards the inner is better. Im not familiar with Sapele or Iroko so will do some reading on those. Im in the Glasgow area and searching usual timber merchants has not produced great results, im not sure if there is a saw mill I can approach in my area, if you have a suggestion for any mills that may deliver (I guess it may depend on quantities) then I would be happy for any suggestions.
Cheers
Dave