Founded in 2008. The Landscape Juice Network (LJN) is the largest and fastest growing professional landscaping and horticultural association in the United Kingdom.
LJN's professional business forum is unrivalled and open to anyone within within the UK landscape industry
LJN's Business Objectives Group (BOG) is for any Pro serious about building their business.
For the researching visitor there's a wealth of landscaping ideas, garden design ideas, lawn advice tips and advice about garden maintenance.
Replies
I've only heard bad things about slow growing turf - The main complaint being that after a short time wild / weed grasses will naturally grow in any lawn - and as these will grow faster than slow grow grass, you will get Lots and lots of "Tufts" and high patches between each mow.
This is made worse by the fact that a) slow growing means low competition to weeds and other grasses, b) Their is no herbicide which can take out one type of lawn grass but not another.
I would be looking at mix of 40% crested hair grass / 30% slender creeping red fescue/ 30% hard fescue , this is low maintenance mix but with the hard fescue for hard wearing areas ,
Hi Tracey,
We supply a turfgrass comprising 80% fescue and 20% Rye. This is considered to be the most suitable blend between appearance, durablility and maintenance for normal garden lawns with most T.G.A Growers (Turfgrass Growers Association). This seed is a dwarf variety so seeds at around 4-5". Essentially, the important part is 'synchronising' the various blends so that they grow at the same rate. A poor seed blend is one that if cut one day shows signs of 'bolting' patches just days later, making the homeowner mow even more!. If not cut regularly, the rye grass will always become the more predominant species.
I do Know Lindum Turf do a Fescue Replacement Turfgrass. This is quite a product. Basically, it is a Rye grass species with a fine sward imitating that of Fescue. Further to this it CAN BE CUT JUST ONCE a year (Autumn). This grass can be cut to within 5mm (Yes, 5mm!) of the soil level, so can be used in non specified putting greens. This does sound something like what you are after. It is an impressive turfgrass to look at also.
It is a good product for say steep banks etc, where maintenance is to be keep low. Indeed it can be used in green roof projects.
Check out Lindum Turfgrass Website.
Interesting - my only concern is how do you regulate the faster growing weed grasses, weeds and if the lawn became compacted the moss? A slow growing grass would be at a severe and unavoidable competition disadvantage against weeds and other grasses. This could add alot of extra maintenance costs in weed control and regulalr over-spraying - Which defeats the point of having a "low maintenance" slow growing grass.
If there is a way around this though, it could be a god send for many.
Jason Lee Sutton said:
I too am of the opinion, that low maintenance lawns can defeat the object. In reality, they certainly do improve on normal grass cutting regime, but still need regular cutting or the grass will as pointed out lose its purity content. Typcially, a lawn will always adapt to the cutting regime of the keeper. If on an 80/20% Fescue/Rye mix the keeper mows twice weekly the Fescue will become predominant. If the keeper mows once every 4 weeks the rye will become predominant. Any lawn grass is best served by regular mowing. Clients should be made aware, this turfgrass is not a ticket to a green lawn with no work. All growers will agree. Not only does mowing cut grass, its also sucks out the nasty invasive weed seeds, keeping germination of weeds at bay. Mowing also promotes strong base growth, ensuring the grass species extend the range of their dominion, helping to block out the nasties. With regard to killing weed grasses, there are weedkillers that not only kill broadleaf weeds, but also kill non ornamental grass species.
An interesting note, is in wildflower turfgrass, yellow rattle is used to keep down the onset of strong moncot growth compared to flowering plants. This is a semi parasitic plant which inhibits growth of all grass by falling seeds on the grass sward. It can easily be removed since it is only an annual plant.
Grasses like Ferscue replacment Turfgrass, make good candidates for very step slopes where soil stabilisation is necessary and manitenance needs to be keeps down. Also it can be used as a normal lawn, especially if the client wishes to cut close to the ground for a putting green finish. Being rye, it also looks alot better than standard blends during the winter months. Fescue Replacement is also a small portion of the cost to 100 Fescue, being quite comparable to standard grass blends used by most T.G.A growers.
David Cox said:
I know this thread is 6 years old but interested in the above quote
"With regard to killing weed grasses, there are weedkillers that not only kill broadleaf weeds, but also kill non ornamental grass species."
I found some on internet available in Australia that fit the description but struggling to find any here. Any ideas of products available ?