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Sometimes when installing a driveway the gradient of the land or obstacles wont allow for the screed rails to be used, this is were having a good eye for a level plays its part.
I screeded the section shown in the image with a 2ft and 4ft spirit level and removed excess whilst making good all parameters with a plastic float and a block paving unit as a depth indicator
Kerry
Gary, Most of my block paving is no wider than 3.5m, what I do is usally concrete the edges then screed using timber that has been notched out to the right depth. Sometimes I use screed bars but not often
I cut my blocks with a stihl disc cutter as I just dont get on with a block splitter, I find a splitter leaves a rough finish.
All my blocks are deliverd on site from the building merchants and are laid straight from the packs.
I like to leave a shingle trap between the property and driveway- maybe Im missing a trick- but I find with most buildings that the brick work is never spot on and never provides a nice clean line.
I have been doing more drives just lately and find it profitable but I just need to speed up the edge laying.
I saw a company last month who preped the screed first, then laid from the middle out and finally installed the edges with a tiny bit of haunching- I would never do this but people seem to be able to get away with it.
Shown here is a particulary interesting drive of which all had to be screeded by eye.
I also mainly work on my own, with some part time help from my bro- Ive used people before but it just causes me more grief.
Pro Gard- those little cuts can be pesky buggers!!
Kerry Jackson said:
A majority of the time yes, however on this occasion as shown above I knew that to avoid darts would spoil the overall aesthetics, Realising this is a weak point and is liable to breaking under weight you'll note from the back edgers that the darts will bear zero weigh or be within any turning circle.
These options are given to the particular client and as you see the design required pushes the curved parallel lines to the double header course.
Be great to see more other driveway images.
No not all the time, only where I see fit, for example, the whole and sole reason I chose the flat top edging kerb is the fact that the kerbs can be cut to create curves, the smaller the cut the tighter the radius, bear in mind that a minimal 300mm may be used as an edger, if I'd have tried to accomplish the same dropping curved radius with lets say a KL Kerb kerb or boot block known as by some then I'd have to start the blocks of on the angle as to not create a staggered sloping curved radius, unsightly.
As for the cuts to a straight edge if you over sail the main lay without the header course in place, you can use a scaffold board and mark off using a header course block as a template at each end of the board, perfect cuts every time as shown in the last image, saves so much time and the cuts, of which are just as important as the drive itself, are clean, crisp and pleasing to the eye, just another way to demonstrate that you do give a damn, afterall would anyone ask the client for payment if the cuts to the perimeter looks like a dogs dinner? and all beause the markings for a block splitter is 2mm out on one or 3-6mm on another.
I know I wouldn't have the gall to.
, This is what Im working on this week. I would say it has taken me two days to put the edges in, with my bro mixing up and stacking out (he's only with me in the mornings)It has a large slope at the front and also kicks in to meet up with a "bridge" over a ditch
It looks better in the flesh!!!!!
Mick Gammage said:
With ample road pins, string line and insulating tape I'd be looking to have charcoals down in a day, both load out together, 20 mins, the installer sets up pins and lines whilst the labourer knocks up a minimum of 10 gauges and barrows to the center of the drive and tips onto dpm membrane as to not contaminate.
Installer loads out a good run of muck( dependant on weather) beds the first couple down with rubber mallet and boat level, tune the bed, tune your eye in and your off.
Another pair of hands on a regular basis helps out no end.
Another free hand screed project:
1 leg of standard 200 x 100 block paving is 122 blocks, we move 52 in a wheel barrow at a time to exactly where they are required without having to spend over £ 700 on an item what will not fit down a 900mm side path
also space is not always a premium outside the property your working on so you have no choice but to stack the pack of blocks 2 high
I agree with the rest though but we use 18mm galvanised steel conduit for screed rails
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