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I am often asked to repair small patches in lawns and thus usually use grass seed.

 

As we all know, seed germination is simply the growth process that occurs when the seed absorbs sufficient moisture to start sprouting. This is regulated by soil temperature according to the variety of grass.

 

However trying to explain to clients that the seed needs moisture – not too wet or too dry but aiming to water sufficiently to swell the seed and start the germination process off can be painful! It is frustrating going back the following week to find that the seed has been drowned or bone dry!

 

To get around this, I normally place some damp top soil and mix with grass seed in a bucket or sack and after 3 – 4 days the seeds are just about sprouting and can be confidently “planted out” and have nearly a 100% success rate.

 

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  • PRO
    Excellent. I'll give it a go.
  • great idea , thanks for sharing.

     

    www.gardens4u.co.uk

     

    robin

  • that sounds good - might try it on our lawn which is not looking its best at the moment.
  • PRO
    Ha ha, is this how the guys who sell pre germinated seed do it? It normally costs a small fortune!

    Nick.
  • PRO
    this term is called (chitting) to pre-germinate the seed, Chitting will certainly speed up germination, pricking the area prior to sowing  will be beneficial but do not let the mixture to dry out keep waterd till second leaf appears.

  • Thanks Graeme
  • That sounds very interesting. Does the seed/soil mix have to be a max of any particular depth, i.e. is light required for germination of the grass seed? Or is it simply a case of helping the seed swell before planting out, so just getting to the germination stage when light is required?  Is there also a ratio of soil:seed as this will surely have some implication on 'planting it out'? Many thanks Graeme. Bo
  • Sorry about the delay in replying Bo.   There is no set rules as to the ratio of soil to seed.  I tend to use about 60g of seed per large spade of soil.  This is left in a dry location for the furst day or two and then moved into full sun and watered.  When ready I just grab a handful and gently rub the mix into the area which has been spiked.  Normally follow this up with some non chitted seed and off it goes.

     

    Here is a lawn that I over-seeded with the pre-germinated seed from the end of May. It was fairly patchy and a shame that I didn't take a before picture.

     

    3314667767?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024

  • PRO
    Golf courses use pre-germinated seed in their tee divot boxes too. After the golfer has teed off (especially on the short par three's) a handful of mixture in the crater that's just been left is filled and levelled...it only takes a couple of days to show good growth (especially if the course uses irrigation).

    I remember when I worked at Blackmoor Golf Club as an assistant, we used to buy in Kingsley washed sand mixed with fenland peat (70:30) and then mix in grass seed about three weeks before carrying out the autumn (October) divoting on the fairways - the warm soil and the pre-germinated seed ensured the grass was strong before leaf fall and to overwinter without failing.

    Good tip Graeme:)
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