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Replies

• 

  Colin Elliott January 11, 2012 at 1:32pm

  Hi Glenn,

  I plot in and label on my survey plan all the plants I propose to retain and ignore any I do not. I keep them on a seperate layer of the drawing so that I am not unduely influenced by them as I create my design.

  When the design is done, I am clearly able to see which might fit in and if they do not will fight my corner with the client on this point.

  With young plants I generally make a list so that they can be lifted and used in the planting plan of the new garden.

  Colin
• 

  Benedict Green January 11, 2012 at 1:54pm

  Hi Glenn,

  Existing plants always seem to make plant plans a little more time consuming. First you need to survey their positions accurately and transfer them to the drawing. This means making a few executive decisions on site as to what plants are worth measuring. Take plenty of photographs too. If you think certain plants are not worth keeping then tell the client as soon as possible as they may come round to your way of thinking after a while. Some plants may have a sentimental attachment for the client, so try and find out how attached they are to them. Maybe the person who planted it is no longer around or its from a cutting from their parents garden? In these cases its best to work round (/with) them.

  Once all the plants are on the plan you can then 'weed' out (pun intended) further if they are not working with your overall plan. Sometimes what you're left with can help inform your design and add some maturity to the scheme. Shrubs and trees are especially useful in this regard and can often be pruned to fit the plan better i.e. crown lifting certain woody trees/shrubs to give light and planting space.  Some specimens could be moved, just warn the client of potential for losses and get their OK. Amazing how some shrubs can be transformed with some shaping and better surrounding planting.
• 

  Rose Lennard January 11, 2012 at 3:57pm

  Agree with the previous posts... in addition, while you have to be quite hard-hearted, I think when you are able to incorporate existing mature trees or shrubs into the new design, even if they are not particularly special or attractive, it may be worth it for the maturity they bring to the overall scheme.
• 

  Glenn Ellis January 11, 2012 at 6:54pm

  
  
  Colin Elliott said:

  Hi Glenn,

  I plot in and label on my survey plan all the plants I propose to retain and ignore any I do not. I keep them on a seperate layer of the drawing so that I am not unduely influenced by them as I create my design.

  When the design is done, I am clearly able to see which might fit in and if they do not will fight my corner with the client on this point.

  With young plants I generally make a list so that they can be lifted and used in the planting plan of the new garden.

  Colin
• 

  Glenn Ellis January 11, 2012 at 6:56pm

  Thanks Colin, that's helpful, I obviously should give this a bit more thought. When you say layer I guess you mean in some software that you use for your planting plans ?  

  Glenn
• 

  Glenn Ellis January 11, 2012 at 6:56pm

  
  
  Benedict Green said:

  Hi Glenn,

  Existing plants always seem to make plant plans a little more time consuming. First you need to survey their positions accurately and transfer them to the drawing. This means making a few executive decisions on site as to what plants are worth measuring. Take plenty of photographs too. If you think certain plants are not worth keeping then tell the client as soon as possible as they may come round to your way of thinking after a while. Some plants may have a sentimental attachment for the client, so try and find out how attached they are to them. Maybe the person who planted it is no longer around or its from a cutting from their parents garden? In these cases its best to work round (/with) them.

  Once all the plants are on the plan you can then 'weed' out (pun intended) further if they are not working with your overall plan. Sometimes what you're left with can help inform your design and add some maturity to the scheme. Shrubs and trees are especially useful in this regard and can often be pruned to fit the plan better i.e. crown lifting certain woody trees/shrubs to give light and planting space.  Some specimens could be moved, just warn the client of potential for losses and get their OK. Amazing how some shrubs can be transformed with some shaping and better surrounding planting.
• 

  Glenn Ellis January 11, 2012 at 6:58pm

  
  
  Glenn Ellis said: Thanks Benedict all very useful information,  fortunately I have taken a lot of photographs  Regards  Glenn

  
  
  Benedict Green said:

  Hi Glenn,

  Existing plants always seem to make plant plans a little more time consuming. First you need to survey their positions accurately and transfer them to the drawing. This means making a few executive decisions on site as to what plants are worth measuring. Take plenty of photographs too. If you think certain plants are not worth keeping then tell the client as soon as possible as they may come round to your way of thinking after a while. Some plants may have a sentimental attachment for the client, so try and find out how attached they are to them. Maybe the person who planted it is no longer around or its from a cutting from their parents garden? In these cases its best to work round (/with) them.

  Once all the plants are on the plan you can then 'weed' out (pun intended) further if they are not working with your overall plan. Sometimes what you're left with can help inform your design and add some maturity to the scheme. Shrubs and trees are especially useful in this regard and can often be pruned to fit the plan better i.e. crown lifting certain woody trees/shrubs to give light and planting space.  Some specimens could be moved, just warn the client of potential for losses and get their OK. Amazing how some shrubs can be transformed with some shaping and better surrounding planting.
• 

  Glenn Ellis January 11, 2012 at 7:00pm

  Thanks Rose, the maturity point is a very good one  Regards  Glenn
  
  Glenn Ellis said:

  
  
  Glenn Ellis said: Thanks Benedict all very useful information,  fortunately I have taken a lot of photographs  Regards  Glenn

  
  
  Benedict Green said:

  Hi Glenn,

  Existing plants always seem to make plant plans a little more time consuming. First you need to survey their positions accurately and transfer them to the drawing. This means making a few executive decisions on site as to what plants are worth measuring. Take plenty of photographs too. If you think certain plants are not worth keeping then tell the client as soon as possible as they may come round to your way of thinking after a while. Some plants may have a sentimental attachment for the client, so try and find out how attached they are to them. Maybe the person who planted it is no longer around or its from a cutting from their parents garden? In these cases its best to work round (/with) them.

  Once all the plants are on the plan you can then 'weed' out (pun intended) further if they are not working with your overall plan. Sometimes what you're left with can help inform your design and add some maturity to the scheme. Shrubs and trees are especially useful in this regard and can often be pruned to fit the plan better i.e. crown lifting certain woody trees/shrubs to give light and planting space.  Some specimens could be moved, just warn the client of potential for losses and get their OK. Amazing how some shrubs can be transformed with some shaping and better surrounding planting.
• 

  Linda Secker March 1, 2012 at 9:04pm

  I agree with what others have said and always try to keep at least some of the existing shrubs to lend maturity to the scheme. It's amazing what a bit of judicious pruning can do. I also feel there should be very good reasons for removing any trees... work round them if at all possible. Perennials though, (and small shrubs) can easily be moved.

  I go round hte garden with the client in the first instance to find out what, if anything, they have really strong feelings about, one way or the other, and take note of that.

  I then mark on the base plan anything that is likely to be kept, then weed out from there if need be.

  One very important note - make sure that any trees or shrubs to be kept are clearly marked on the layout plan, AND make sure that the contractors doing the clearing READ THE PLAN. Once that 30ft magnolia has been grubbed out and is lying in a mangled heap, no amount of recrimination or gesticulation can replace it :)
• 

  Glenn Ellis March 1, 2012 at 10:21pm

  Thanks Linda, that's very helpful and a great point about the contractors.
  
  Linda Secker said:

  I agree with what others have said and always try to keep at least some of the existing shrubs to lend maturity to the scheme. It's amazing what a bit of judicious pruning can do. I also feel there should be very good reasons for removing any trees... work round them if at all possible. Perennials though, (and small shrubs) can easily be moved.

  I go round hte garden with the client in the first instance to find out what, if anything, they have really strong feelings about, one way or the other, and take note of that.

  I then mark on the base plan anything that is likely to be kept, then weed out from there if need be.

  One very important note - make sure that any trees or shrubs to be kept are clearly marked on the layout plan, AND make sure that the contractors doing the clearing READ THE PLAN. Once that 30ft magnolia has been grubbed out and is lying in a mangled heap, no amount of recrimination or gesticulation can replace it :)