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Replies

• PRO

  Phil Voice April 25, 2010 at 10:08am

  Hi Anthony
  
  Why not get yourself a small compressor from Screwfix and use the air gun to blow it clear? I have one which cost me about £99.00 many years ago. It came with a nail gun, paint sprayer and tyre inflater attachment too - very useful.
  
  This isn't the one I have but similar: http://www.screwfix.com/prods/53926/Power-Tools/Compressors/Bostitc...
• 

  Lawncare-4u.co.uk April 25, 2010 at 12:53pm

  2nd hand compressor £40 - £50 priceless............... as new or netto . loads cheap online or ebay (most folk buy them ,never use them and sell on 1/2 price with tools)
• 

  Lawncare-4u.co.uk April 25, 2010 at 12:54pm

  does it set on fire ?? is it safe to do this?
  
  Pro Gard said:

  I regularly scrape the crude out from the sprocket cover and oil pump hole with a finger then a quick brush off, twice a week or end of the day check the air filter.
  
  Periodicly the general air filter, and switch area I blow off gently with compressed air and dust with paint brush, ocasionally i remove the starter asembly and alll covers and soak in soapy water and scrub off to remove acumulated grime.
  
  Exhaust gets sprayed with WD40 after each use as with all my machines to prevent rust forming.
• 

  Michael Gurney April 25, 2010 at 3:39pm

  Hi Anthony
  Dont forget to clear the grove in the bar and oil ways, also turn the bar to keep even wear, like the leaf blower idea by steve
• 

  Anthony Toop April 25, 2010 at 5:31pm

  Thanks everyone,
  
  Ive tried the blower before now, but 50% or more of the crud is glued in place by the oil so it only really removes dust and shavings that are already loose anyway.
  
  Also like Pauls suggestion of using the WD40 to combat corrosion on the exhaust, will do that from now on ;-)
  
  So no one uses a degreasant then of any kind? to help remove excess oil, brushing and wiping is fine but it still leaves an oily residue.
• 

  David Channon April 25, 2010 at 6:01pm

  We use a compressed air gun (& Safety Glasses of course!)
• 

  Allan Watson April 25, 2010 at 11:14pm

  Anthony
  
  Try using a stiff hand brush , you only really need to remove most of the loose material , a bit of dirt and oil wont make a difference to how it works as long as you clean the important parts . The crud that builds up behind the side cover will only become a problem if it starts to affect the operation of the chain brake mechanism. I just wip the bar cover off every now and then (depends on use) and using the srewdriver part of the plug spanner , scrape out most of the crud then with a trimmed down paint brush (to make the bristles stiffer) give it all a quick brush out. I always make sure the oil holes are clear and the mating faces on the side cover and main body are completely clear . Fipping the bar is good practice , but also check the bar for burs on the edges , particularly around the nose, file them off with a flat file back to a square edge. If burs get big enough a small section of the edge can fracture and break off.
  
  I like to keep my equipment tidy and well maintained but a bit of dirt just shows they get used.
• 

  Lawncare-4u.co.uk April 26, 2010 at 12:42am

  u must have cs 30 and 31
  
  Allan Watson said:

  Anthony
  
  Try using a stiff hand brush , you only really need to remove most of the loose material , a bit of dirt and oil wont make a difference to how it works as long as you clean the important parts . The crud that builds up behind the side cover will only become a problem if it starts to affect the operation of the chain brake mechanism. I just wip the bar cover off every now and then (depends on use) and using the srewdriver part of the plug spanner , scrape out most of the crud then with a trimmed down paint brush (to make the bristles stiffer) give it all a quick brush out. I always make sure the oil holes are clear and the mating faces on the side cover and main body are completely clear . Fipping the bar is good practice , but also check the bar for burs on the edges , particularly around the nose, file them off with a flat file back to a square edge. If burs get big enough a small section of the edge can fracture and break off.
  
  I like to keep my equipment tidy and well maintained but a bit of dirt just shows they get used.
• PRO

  Will - WB Design & Construction April 26, 2010 at 7:42am

  I have my CS30 & 31 and would highly recomend every body involved in using a chainsaw to be qualified as it is a legal requirement and there are too many landscapers who aren't and are giving the industry a bad reputation. As for cleaning my saws once i finish with them for the day i give them a quick once ove, scrape away the worst of it. Every now and then giving it a proper going over including blowing off with the compressor. Find a bucket of hot soapy water very good perticularly for cleaning the air filter.
  
  Robin Ainsworth said:

  u must have cs 30 and 31
  
  Allan Watson said:

  Anthony
  
  Try using a stiff hand brush , you only really need to remove most of the loose material , a bit of dirt and oil wont make a difference to how it works as long as you clean the important parts . The crud that builds up behind the side cover will only become a problem if it starts to affect the operation of the chain brake mechanism. I just wip the bar cover off every now and then (depends on use) and using the srewdriver part of the plug spanner , scrape out most of the crud then with a trimmed down paint brush (to make the bristles stiffer) give it all a quick brush out. I always make sure the oil holes are clear and the mating faces on the side cover and main body are completely clear . Fipping the bar is good practice , but also check the bar for burs on the edges , particularly around the nose, file them off with a flat file back to a square edge. If burs get big enough a small section of the edge can fracture and break off.
  
  I like to keep my equipment tidy and well maintained but a bit of dirt just shows they get used.
• 

  Allan Watson April 28, 2010 at 12:51am

  I have my CS30 and 31 and yes it is well worth doing these . I found the course to be too long and too expensive for the amount of info they passed on . Just another cash cow ??? I was paying for it myself , unlike most of the other students , who were on yts or some other shceme and getting it for free .
  
  Will - WB Design & Construction said:

  I have my CS30 & 31 and would highly recomend every body involved in using a chainsaw to be qualified as it is a legal requirement and there are too many landscapers who aren't and are giving the industry a bad reputation. As for cleaning my saws once i finish with them for the day i give them a quick once ove, scrape away the worst of it. Every now and then giving it a proper going over including blowing off with the compressor. Find a bucket of hot soapy water very good perticularly for cleaning the air filter.
  
  Robin Ainsworth said:

  u must have cs 30 and 31
  
  Allan Watson said:

  Anthony
  
  Try using a stiff hand brush , you only really need to remove most of the loose material , a bit of dirt and oil wont make a difference to how it works as long as you clean the important parts . The crud that builds up behind the side cover will only become a problem if it starts to affect the operation of the chain brake mechanism. I just wip the bar cover off every now and then (depends on use) and using the srewdriver part of the plug spanner , scrape out most of the crud then with a trimmed down paint brush (to make the bristles stiffer) give it all a quick brush out. I always make sure the oil holes are clear and the mating faces on the side cover and main body are completely clear . Fipping the bar is good practice , but also check the bar for burs on the edges , particularly around the nose, file them off with a flat file back to a square edge. If burs get big enough a small section of the edge can fracture and break off.
  
  I like to keep my equipment tidy and well maintained but a bit of dirt just shows they get used.