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Hi We don't install Artifical grass but have used an installer local to us - I did a post on this briefly http://www.drive-cote.co.uk/2012/11/nottingham-resin-drive-project-...
Our installer did not nail into the sand - he incorporated hardcore and compacted it and then nailed it! He didn't use any battens though. We would not be able to offer details of a good source/suppplier but we are based in Nottinghamshire so I am sure if you are not a "local" competitior to our installer he may be happy to give you some pointers? a working company may be a good place to start. On saying that there is an artifical grass supplier on the LJN - he saw our blog and got in touch with us. There is an Artifical Grass group on LJN which will be worth joining. If you want the details of our installer then let me know and I can email them to you.
were an approved installer. Most are fixed in the same way depending on teh type of lawn and its pile. Some are held dopwn by the weight of having sand swept into them. Most are held down by simply nailing them if its on an mot sub-base with sharp sand bed on top. The advantage of nailing it is it does give a firm fixing and it can be taken up if upu ever need to do any further work in teh area, ie softspot or want to insatll another feature such as play equipment. You can use the joint adhesive as well along teh edge, but it means it cant be taken up at a later date. Personally i always use battens as it gives a better fixing. It doesnt affect the surface. Like anything the actual laying of the turf is easy its getting the prepartion spot on so it lasts (ive had customers chose other installers because they were cheaper only to find theyve laid the stuff straight onto bare earth) The other important thing with teh insatllation is working out teh cuts and the lay of the grass, just like carpet. Get all the preperation right and then bugger up a join so it stands out amile and the customer wont be happy. Once you get used to it its fairly straight forward though
There area lot of different suppliers out there, and there is some marked difference in the quality and prices and looks of the lawn. Best bet is to trawl the net and get plenty of samples. Most manufacturers will do decent trade discounts.
Cheers Thermo.
Someone had said battens were a safer fixing, and i think I prefer the sound of this. I would use battens to get my sand level anyway so it makes sense. My only concern with this was if your sand dropped a fraction you might have a slight ridge or hard spot where the battens were. If theres enough thickness/pile I assume you wouldn't feel this.
I've been asked by a couple of times for this by customers but probably give it a go at home first before I offer it as a service.
Thermo said:
All of perimeter supported with Timber gravel boards that are screwed to stakes driven into the ground !
This will retain your subbase, sand etc and allow you to tack the arti grass to the top !
membrane, Hardcore base about 2 - 3 inch with sand blinding on top !
As Thermo said above be careful on the cuts ! You only get one shot at this do it wrong and you are stuffed !
Hi Steve
In answer to your question about fixing artificial grass with nails I can offer the following advice:
Getting a secure fixing is quite important so that the grass cannot move over time.
Our preferred method is to add 2x1 tanalised timber edging all around the perimeter, this is positioned flush with the sub-base (Type 1 aggregate and sharp sand) and is crucial as it not only offers the best and easiest method of fixing (we use a small nail to fix to the timber which site below the pile and thus is not visible or dangerous) but ensures that weeds cannot grow up at the edges of the lawn.
A 6 inch nail can be used to fix directly into the aggregate if there is an occasion where you cannot add timber for any reason. The other useful fixing method is when you are installing up against a patio with haunching it is best to use adhesive to fix the grass in place.
With regards your other points about the quality of the grass, most decent artificial grass products should give you a life span of about 15 years in a domestic setting. Trulawn have a leading range of samples that may be of interest. www.trulawn.co.uk/products
You may also be interested to know we run free training sessions for landscapers and the next training day is on Saturday the 16th February in Sandhurst, Berkshire. So please feel free to get in touch on 01252 819695 or sales@trulawn.co.uk
Hi Caroline,
I am based in The North West so the training session isn't viable but thank you anyway.
Your info and advice is much appreciated and addresses my key issue of fixing.
Hi Torin
Thanks also for your advice, I would be a lot more confident of the job if fixed into boards/battens.
you can get a little settlement over time, but the advantage of the method of fixing with the nails and the battens is you can simply lift the edge and make any necessary adjustments to the screed if need be. The only times i have ever needed to was when there was a tree stump that had previously been removed which we didnt know about and when a client constantly used a water slide and hospipe in one area.
The other thing to bear in mind is the pricing when it comes to working out the cuts. Its not simply a case of ordering the sqm you need, as you need to make sure you have the piles running in the same way, just like carpet, so you can end up needing more than the actual area you have.
Didn't realise it had piles to be honest. What width are they usually or do you have a choice on the more popular lines?
oh and the joining adhesive is a bugger to get off of your hands...and your tools....and your clothes...and the turf....and the clients cat...and dog......
Hello Steve,
We install in Notts for Namgrass. Their products are very good & can deliver anywhere. I have got to know them & they are a genuine bunch & I know they are looking (as are most other suppliers) to increase their independent installers. We are a landscape business so have the skills for fixing the grass my prefered way, which is to edge all perimeters with a brick pavior on a concrete footing, leaving a concrete shoulder approx 5-10mm below finished brick height to glue to & which leaves a very tidy edge. There are cost/time implications with this method but the finished look is good. Where cost is a factor, tanalised battons are effective, but we always screw with a large head screw & not nail. If the grass needs adjusting its easy with screws & a large head holds the grass more permanently but can still be hidden in the pile.
Good luck
Duncan@ www.gardendesignco.com