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  Charles Langford February 3, 2011 at 2:41pm

  I think, as usual Gary has got this covered. You could also paint the blockwork with a bitumen emulsifier if you want but iit might be overkill. Depends on how frost tolerant the brick is. If it does not have a good frost tolerance the water which travels through it may well cause spalling (when the face crumbles) as a result of expansion and contraction due to freeze thaw.
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  Jenny Bloom February 3, 2011 at 3:03pm

  Thanks Gary and Charles - that's brilliant advice.

  It was not just the 'look' I was considering but also the possible increase in cost if using more than half brick width. From what you are saying though, half brick width not advisable - so if I was to stop the inner block skin below soil level, do you have a recommendation on high the full skin width should be?

  I was wanting to use reclaimed brick (old London stocks) to go with the house.

  Thanks

   

  Jenny
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  Jenny Bloom February 3, 2011 at 4:12pm

  Thanks Gary. Really appreciate your expertise.

   

  Will go for brick soldier course for coping as it will match an existing low wall in the garden. Not what I had originally envisaged, but hey, would rather make sure the thing is sound and properly constructed - and the extra width of wall will provide good 'perching' places round the patio!

   

  Thanks again

   

  jenny
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  Jenny Bloom February 3, 2011 at 7:31pm

  Thanks again Gary - and liking the curves!

  One final question if you don't mind, do you think my raised bed scenario would need weep holes near the base? On one side is the patio (but Acco drain on the other side of patio) and the side is a border. I am working in tandem with an architect who has designed an extension for the client and her contractor will be building the patio and raised beds - whilst my contactor does the rest of the garden. Although I have asked for no solid base to bed to allow for drainage underneath, she has suggested the beds would also need weep holes on both sides. If so, how does that work with the DPM? Any thoughts?

  Wish you worked nearer me!

  Jenny

  
  Gary @ Acer Paving & Landscaping said:

  You're welcome Jenny.

  An example -

   

  

  
  
  Jenny Bloom said:

  Thanks Gary. Really appreciate your expertise.

   

  Will go for brick soldier course for coping as it will match an existing low wall in the garden. Not what I had originally envisaged, but hey, would rather make sure the thing is sound and properly constructed - and the extra width of wall will provide good 'perching' places round the patio!

   

  Thanks again

   

  jenny
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  Charles Langford February 3, 2011 at 8:00pm

  If the raised bed is going to be above the existing ground level I would argue that you might not need them. Weep holes are mainly used on retaining walls as you are mucking around with the natural ground levels. If you think about it logically the water should percolate through your bed and into the ground below and then back into the water table as it did before. Always prudent to pop them in but then again you should really backfill behind the dpm with clean shingle as well. Jenny, please. please, please make sure that which ever contractor you use to do this work makes them look good. I have seen so many that ruin the aesthetics of the stucture. If using sme sort of pipe as a weep hole we normally cut a sqaure of terram and cable tie it around the inside of end of the pipe to endsure that they don't get blocked or merely act as an outlet for mud after a heavy downpour.
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  Jenny Bloom February 3, 2011 at 9:04pm

  Thanks again both.

  It was the aesthetics that concerned me Charles especially if they are not absolutely necessary. Especially on the patio side where there is currently no provision for gravel margin/soakaway to hide them/run into. The beds are above ground level and I have asked for minimum of 100mm shingle in the base of the beds and which yes should percolate down ok I would have thought.

  As a compromise I might suggest that the weep holes are only at one side, directed at the planted areas where they will not be visible. Will also suggest your terram pipe block/mud proofing idea!

  My bit of the garden won't be built for a few months yet, but the architects need my plans as their contractors start on the extension etc later this month.

  Thanks again both for your considerable help.

  Jenny