...and more crocuses in September...

Well, strictly speaking Colchicum autumnale, or what we call Naked Ladies, because the flowers come up before the leaves, at the end of the summer when the weather is just starting to get cooler and damper. We were in the Pyrenees for 10 days’ backpacking on the long distance GR10 footpath in the Ariege district, and the first day and a half were spent hiking up the valley from the nearest train station to get to the route. The path through the valley followed old hollowed out lanes shaded by Hazel, Beech, and often Walnut. I’ve always thought of Colchicum as a flower of meadows and seeing it here suggested that in the past these lanes might have been much more open; certainly the woodland around us had clearly been managed as coppice in the past. (However I see the BBC gardening website says it can be grown in full shade or sun, so maybe it’s just a very adaptable plant).

Trudging uphill for hours (days!) gives you plenty of time to think, and I like trying to imagine what life must have been like, living in the surrounding landscape in times past. Rural France, like most of Europe, has seen huge changes in recent decades, as peasant farming has largely died out and been replaced by mechanised farming and urbanisation. The traces left behind are tantalising: the beautiful old holloways linking villages to mountain pastures, all with their stone walls and some with traces of cobble paving; the overgrown coppice and standard woodland; walnut trees planted near buildings; a surprising number of old stone buildings among the woods, now mostly in ruins but some once quite substantial and well built; old terrace walls, the land once cleared for crops now reclaimed by trees, though often no more than about 40 or 50 years old. I suspect this amazing old stone bridge might raise a few eyebrows if I specified it in a garden build...

When you think about it, there was a good living to be had, in the times when wealth wasn’t about consumer goods. Timber for building, heating and cooking, nuts and berries to be foraged from the woods, a bit of grass for a cow or goats, pigs getting fat on the acorns. Fresh water from the snow melt, summer pastures for the sheep. The paths must have been important: taking your surplus produce to market to trade for things you couldn’t produce, connections to neighbours, and lifelines to guide you home when snow hid all the features of the landscape. No wonder they were carefully built.

Now even the shepherding lifestyle is changing. Flocks are still grazed up on the mountain, but shepherds want a little more comfort and convenience than they did in the past, and apparently they have used the reintroduction of bears to the mountains to lever more money for improvements out of the government, saying they have to stay with the flocks whereas before they could leave them. Now some of the cabanes are block built rather than stone, with satellite dishes, solar panels and improved tracks. There are more
pens for the livestock, and battered old vehicles parked up.

We didn’t see any bears, though knowing they are around is an interesting thought in the middle of the night with just the skin of the tent between you and the night. But I loved the way that walking for days allows you to get far from civilisation, and loved the nights we spent in the open. Other nights we stayed in mountain refuges where we got a good meal and a shower. At the end of September the guardians are getting ready to close up for the Winter and there were only a handful of other hikers.


Compared to the early Summer wildflowers were scarce, though the Colchicum were a constant even up on the high cols. A few vivid pink Dianthus, occasional Gentians. I’m always fascinated by watching the plant communities changing in response to altitude, aspect, or soil type and moisture. ‘Aha, back in the Pulmonaria zone again I see!’. Very boring company for those less interested in botanical niceties; I think my husband has learned to turn a deaf ear to latin names.


Part of the interest of the GR10 is the way it largely follows ancient routes between villages, although this also makes it very strenuous as it descends to the valleys before taking you back up to the cols again. The Haute Route sticks more to the high ground and may actually be kinder to the knees. After a particularly long descent on our last day, taking us right down to Ax-les-Thermes, we treated our knees to a couple of hours in a superb thermal spa complex. The water comes out of the ground at temperatures hot enough to scald, and the spa features every kind of whirling, kneading and swirling water, indoors and out, as well as saunas, cold plunge pools and steam rooms. Bliss!

 

 

Votes: 0
E-mail me when people leave their comments –

You need to be a member of Landscape Juice Network to add comments!

Join Landscape Juice Network

Open forum activity

Jake Piechowicz replied to A. Latta's discussion Driveway weedkiller recommendations
"I've found that once a month treatment of glyphosate is more than sufficient for most places. is chikara/ pistol suitable for gravel? I thought it was only for railway ballast or am I being daft?"
30 minutes ago
PGM replied to A. Latta's discussion Driveway weedkiller recommendations
"We also use Pistol on our hard surfaces. 30ml per litre seems to kill pretty much everything and then keeps the weeds down afterwards too as it's residual. "
2 hours ago
Graham Taylor replied to A. Latta's discussion Driveway weedkiller recommendations
"Chilra or Pistol are great.................. one application now will keep it completely clear for the year.   Its not cheap but its good... you're looking at £150 roughly........ but its highly diluted in use so once you've bought it, you'll have…"
2 hours ago
Vic 575 replied to Kris Baker's discussion Hedge trimmer harness
"Just had a look and it’s only the name that has changed slightly, from ‘Lift’ to ‘Lifting’.
It is also over £100 cheaper than mine was all those years ago. A genuine bargain.
Buy one now."
6 hours ago
Vic 575 replied to Kris Baker's discussion Hedge trimmer harness
"The Easy Lifting Harness you picture is pretty much exactly the same as mine, only with two gas struts as opposed to one. The double gas strut variant was available when I got mine but the single gas strut version was more than capable weight wise…"
6 hours ago
Kris Baker replied to Kris Baker's discussion Hedge trimmer harness
"Thanks Vic, Yes, definitely been swayed by your previous review. I wonder if the V3 Elephant and the new Henchman have narrowed the gap.
I could import from USA ... but I want one "tomorrow" - I'm well past retirement age and have found manhandling…"
6 hours ago
Kris Baker replied to Kris Baker's discussion Hedge trimmer harness
"Thanks. I have done a bit more research.
Can't seem to find the Easy Lift - their website lists 3 dealers in EU, one dead links and for the other two I can't find the product on their website. Doesn't bode well ... and seems that Henchman have given…"
6 hours ago
Vic 575 replied to Kris Baker's discussion Hedge trimmer harness
"Hi Kris,
No doubt you will have seen my previous contributions extolling the virtues of the Easy Lift Harness. I’ve had mine for many years now [10 to 15 years maybe]. Quite simply it is a life changing device. Why every professional Gardener does…"
7 hours ago
Geoffrey King replied to James's discussion What is average cost for mowing a garden?
"Hello Lee, i do this sort of work, in 2014 I raised my base hourly rate to £30/hr. 1.5hr @45 2hr @60 & 3hr @80 then @85 then @87.50
Last year 3hrs @95 for new customers, they said that was very reasonable this is Ryedale, North Yorks
Have charged…"
7 hours ago
Stephen r Brook-Smith replied to Stephen r Brook-Smith's discussion Please help , what is eating my lily’s!!!??
"A quick update folks , just incase anyone else comes across this problem 
it was bloody slugs!!!! "
9 hours ago
Andrew Drummond updated their profile
17 hours ago
A. Latta posted a discussion
Hi all, does anyone have advice (product recommendations) on how to keep large parking areas (gravel and or block paving areas) free of weeds without spending a small fortune on 'path clear' and suchlike?Thank you in advance 
18 hours ago
Ben Carter replied to James's discussion What is average cost for mowing a garden?
"Hi lee. 
As others have said price per job and hourly rate in your head.  You have to bear in mind equipment loading, travelling and equipment servicing which clients don't see.  
£25 is not unreasonable."
18 hours ago
Dave Colton replied to Kris Baker's discussion Hedge trimmer harness
"I use the elephant trunk and it works fine even on very heavy hedge trimmers. Not cheap but worth the money if you have a long run of cutting to do."
18 hours ago
Kris Baker posted a discussion
I would like advice on a harness please.Looking at past threads the Easy Lift seemed to be the favourite. Henchman used to sell it (Google still links to the Henchman page, but there isn't anything there any more)I can't find any other UK…
20 hours ago
Lee Davis replied to James's discussion What is average cost for mowing a garden?
"Hmm thank you very much (and others who have commented).  Clearly need to rethink how I do things. I suppose I was trying to be transparent, but now they all trust me and know that I do a good job it's a bit different to when I first started. "
21 hours ago
More…