Getting a new (2nd hand) Transit next week which my mechanic has sorted out for me and I want to treat the floor so that it is a bit more waterproof. My last Transit has lasted 11 years from new and is totally sound in terms of engine but the body is rotten and so will not pass another MOT. My mechanic says it's due to the green waste carried which has rusted it from the inside out. I know I can't avoid it getting damp inside totally and I've bought an older van this time so I don't need it to last as long but I'd like to do what I can to prolong it's life. I've ordered a wind driven roof vent to be fitted and I'm looking at paints to seal the floor but not sure which to go for as some are mega expensive. Here's what I've found but looks like I'd need at least 2 litres:
https://www.resincoat.co.uk/en/high-build-epoxy-floor-paint/57-factory-floor-paint.html (£18 per l)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Protectakote-Anti-Slip-Coating-in-5-Colours-with-Optional-Solvent-Roller-Tray-/201221982803?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368 (£70 for 4 l)
https://www.tool-net.co.uk/p-394458/everbuild-floor.html?gclid=Cj0KEQjwjem-BRC_isGJlJ-0h-MBEiQAbCimWOSscg5_IvJZmY7PPIdpuP8SqBxREiFWCs4PjZ-h-coaAq-g8P8HAQ (5l for £22 quid)
Has anyone used any of these or something else? I'm hoping the cheaper one will suffice as it says suitable for wood but doesn't say if waterproof.
I'm thinking I'll silicone the edges too and wondering what I could do with the holes in the corners where the anchor points are as we don't use them and they always fill up with horrid damp soil. Any advice appreciated. Helen.
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Hello Helen,
I haven't used any of those products before so can't help much there but have you thought about towing a small trailer for the green waste instead? It would depend on what Transit you have and your licence but as a minimal, I believe you would be able to tow at least 750 kg on a normal car licence.... (There is a great article on towing here in the forums by Adam which explains the legal towing limits for each licence but I'm unsure how to add links.)
If towing is out of the question, I would advise checking the current condition of the van and if there is existing rust already, use a product like Vactan which is a rust converter before applying any other types of paint or resin. It prevents the rust from continuing to eat away at the remaining good metal but also acts as a primer for whatever product you choose to use. I bought some last year from ebay to paint my chassis with before waxoyling and have since used it to tidy up an old fridge and cooker with rust spots coming through. It only treats rust that's already there though and only adheres to rust so if there's no rust to start with, you won't be needing it. If there is rust on the vehicle and you treat it with a resin or paint without treating the existing rust, you could seal the rust in which continues to eat away at the metal. The paint or resin then usually hides this until it's too late so the first you know about it is when the MOT tester says it's failed on rust or a whopping hole appears.
Lastly, in the back of my van, I carry a loose rug that is laid upside down in the back. I avoid putting wet stuff on it but the rug makes emptying the back really easy and it also hides the anchor points so no debris gets down there. In theory, having a rug probably isn't a great idea if your disposing of green waste frequently but it does seem to work really well for me. If I was to be collecting lots of green waste though (I only collect small amounts and its occasional), I would probably get a sheet of ply wood instead of a rug and leave loose over the floor... then the anchor holes are covered but you can also pull the wood out should you take a wet load and need things to dry out.
Sorry I couldn't answer your questions directly but hopefully there may be something of use in the above lol
The link to the towing thread I referred to at the top
The roof vent will help a lot.
Do you empty the green waste each night or leave it in for a bit??
If you internally seal your whole van I suspect you'll get condensation building up behind the ply wood anyway (warmer inside the van than out)
Other than that you could just wax/varnish the wood. The old fashioned stuff works too!
Hi,
I seal all the gaps with flexible silicone (don't get the ridged stuff it will just crack). I then give it a good few coats of standard garage floor paint. I picked up a 10ltr tin from my local DIY store for £30. I gave it 4 good coats and still have more than half the tin left. It will need touching up now and then on the wear points but I find it works really well. By far the best thing is to empty green material at the end of each day so to reduce build up. I once left a full dumpy bag of grass in mine over the weekend. I came out on the Monday morning and it was virtually raining inside! On jobs then I can I try and leave the door open for a bit just to get some air in.
I used floor paint. About £35 from screwfix or toolstation for 5ltr, though 2.5ltr would be enough. You don't need the nonslip stuff. I painted all the ply lining, walls as well, and the racking. Did it 2 years ago and touched it up once since. It's been really good. But you need to brush it on thinly and be aware that it takes a while to dry. Like maybe 3 days, although that was in winter time. The anchor point holes you could try body filler or expanding foam or even just wood filler. Bit of an experiment really.
I'd second the Line -X suggestion. My previous truck rotted from the inside out too, and the replacement pick up I bought this year had a cracked and ill fitting load liner, but no rust (it would have appeared soon enough). Made a quick call to my nearest LIne-X franchise, checked out the product, and booked the truck in for a few hrs of tlc. It's fantastic.
http://line-x.co.uk/
bed liner paint if your going to do something do it right,
get a company (link above quick google) local as you can to spray with truck bed liner. this is fully waterproof / shock proof and will last longer than the van.
I think it was mythbusters did a special on this stuff and its some very magic paint indeed.
problem if you just seal the top layer of ply is you will still have moisture penetrate through either the joints or edges so if you get it done properly you will not have any of that and could even then pressure was your van out
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