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Replies
Would have done similar using Rawplug hammer frame M8/M10 fixings.
Single drill, insert and whack twice ;-)
yeh frame fixings as gary has mentioned above or sleeve anchors M12 for a really strong fixing drill a large hole an inch deep to counter sink the head and it looks tidy.
I use 10mm Hex head screw, more expensive than hammer fixings but much stronger.
I find 'thunderbolts' are better than frame fixings as you can really tighten them up so the post has no 'wobble' when it's on the wall. I drill straight through the post and the wall with an SDS masonary bit and wratchet it in with a washer in place. Can be coutersunk first if needs be. I never thought it would grip in concrete, I always imagined it would just shred the hole, but it truly lets you tighten the heck out out of it. Just use the correct diameter bit for the bolt. Here is a link (although I have never used this company, I just googled it for illustration) http://www.tradefixdirect.com/product_info.php?products_id=1995&...
Exactly the same for me, they can't be faulted.
Nick
Jeff Bradley said:
I use the thinner 4" x 2" posts. ...... they call them "wall plates" at my local fencing retailer..... to secure to the wall. Always use the 10mm hammer fixers which are really quick and rock solid.
Concrete screws for me. SDS through the lot and an impact driver to send them home.
Is that up at Kensworth?
Geoff Norfolk said:
Not heard of these before, may have to give them ago. Usualy I would use either frame fixings or rwal bolts, but opted against these as the wall is quite old.
Nick @ NM Garden Services (NMGS) said:
i use coach screws as my dad can get them from the place he works. we used to use them where i used to work to repair the skids on the jackleg portacabins when the forklift ripped them off, the timbers were 4 or 6 inch by 3 or 4 and ran the full length of the unit. they needed to be good fixings as an average jackleg weighs around 5 tonne without the furniture, kitchens, toilets etc inside.
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