How To Lay Turf ... Like A Pro.

The best thing about laying turf to establish a fresh lawn is the rapid transformation. In this article, we will show you a step-by-step how guide on how to lay turf ... like a pro.

1.     Prepare your tools

For this type of project, you will only need a spade, some planks, a rake, a long knife, a garden hose, a wheelbarrow, a sprinkler, and turf cutter.

2.     Prepare your soil

Even the most expensive garden turf will not look its best if your soil is of poor quality. So, before you do any work, check your soil. If it’s too dry and crumbles in your hands, enrich your soil to encourage the turf's rapid and deep root growth.

Having strong roots will ensure that you have a lawn that’s drought-resistant and uses water and nutrients effectively. It also makes your lawn more visually appealing because they lead to a denser sward of grass.

If the area to be turfed has an existing lawn or is overrun by weeds, treat it with a non-selective weed killer at least fourteen days before you start. Then remove any unwanted grass with turf cutter.

3.     Calculate your turf and topsoil requirements

This will require a bit of math. Measure the area to be turfed then multiply the length by the width. Add 5% to the product. The result is the number of rolls you need. Since most turf suppliers roll out their product in square meters, it would be easier if you measure your lawn in meter units.

As to how much top soil you need, measure the depth, length and width of the area to be covered, then multiply them together to get the volume you need. If you’re not confident about your math, simply go online and search for “turf product calculator.”

You need AT LEAST 100mm of good soil that’s free from any stone, debris and weeds. Always, buy your top soil and turf from a reputable supplier. Also, have the top soil delivered a couple of days before the turf so that you can adequately prepare.

4.     Lay the top soil

Once your top soil has been loosened, it should be lightly compacted. You can do this by walking over the top soil and smoothing the surface as you do. Then rake the surface until the soil has been evenly worked over. Water the top soil at least two days before the turf arrives. Rake again before you lay the turf.

5.     Lay the turf

Start laying the turf immediately. If you have a round area, start from the center then work your way out. If you have a rectangular-shaped area, start from a straight edge. Lay the turfs closely to one another so that there are no gaps. (Gaps cause the grass to dry out). On the succeeding rows, lay them out in brickwork style.

Do not step on a newly-laid turf, but if you need to, walk over it with a plank. When you’re done, lightly press on the turf with a rake, making sure that the turfs have good contact with the soil. Do NOT use a roller. Also, do not pull a turf into a joint, always push. Fill in any cracks by lightly distributing topsoil and even the ground. 

6.     Water your lawn

Water your lawn immediately after you’re done. Do this for several days until the turf gets firmly rooted.

 

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Open forum activity

Peter sellers posted a discussion
Just watched on YT the launch of the "new and improved" Hayter 56 Pro.We have run these for around 4 years as they suited our sites, weight, and short handle length.Had issues with grass build up around roller scraper bar to the extent the roller…
6 hours ago
Kerry Parfitt replied to Kerry Parfitt's discussion Dandelions on lawn
"Hi Peter yes I have my spraying tickets just putting the feelers out thanks il order some thanks for the reply "
9 hours ago
Peter sellers replied to Kerry Parfitt's discussion Dandelions on lawn
"If you have a spraying cerificate any selective turf herbicide such as Praxys and for fertiliser any lawn fertiliser, plenty of choice on net, think you also need a certificate to apply lawn fert, the so called weed and feed ferts which contain…"
10 hours ago
Kerry Parfitt posted a discussion
Hi all whats the best treatment for them dandelions on a lawn please and a possible feed thanks
21 hours ago
Clive replied to Dan Nate's discussion Charging Stihl tools from the van
"Exactly, you are running them flat working at a clients so charge them there. No need for the unnecessary expense "
23 hours ago
John Elliott replied to Dan Nate's discussion Charging Stihl tools from the van
"I charge at customers on a Stihl fast charger if they have an outside socket but also have multiple batteries as well when I haven't got access to power."
yesterday
Intelligent Landscapes replied to Jason Taylor's discussion Lawn / soil problem
" 1) Assuming your client has just moved into the house, ask their solictors to check the terms of the sale contract, what obligations do the developers/sellers have under the contract regarding the garden condition?
2) Investigate the reason for the…"
yesterday
Neil Darby replied to Dan Nate's discussion Charging Stihl tools from the van
"I charge on site if need be, or at home first, depending on how long I am at the job, which are mostly half days. I only spend 15 minutes max dringing to/from home so no way I could charge in the van even if I wanted to go down that route. Most…"
yesterday
Andrew Betteridge replied to Jason Taylor's discussion Lawn / soil problem
"Around here in Worcestershire it's £4 per tonne plus VAT for bulk product, with delivery charge on top.  Minimum quantity for delivery is 8 tonnes.
So it is not expensive to buy and is lightweight, so easy to handle. One guy I used to work for…"
yesterday
Distance replied to Jason Taylor's discussion Lawn / soil problem
"While I agree yes that would be ideal, what's that going to cost, anywhere from £1000-£2000? How is that going to get them out of this pickle, I very much doubt the customer would go for that. The rear tine rotavator is the answer, I have done a new…"
Friday
Andrew Betteridge replied to Jason Taylor's discussion Lawn / soil problem
"Tiller or rotavator, it still the same mud.
Ten ton of the council soil improver from the household recycling mixed in with it would help, don't call it compost because it's not.
Edit- looking at the photo again, make it at least twenty tons."
Thursday
Peter sellers replied to Jason Taylor's discussion Lawn / soil problem
"Don't think you are paying attention, the original post was from Jason Taylor, I did not post the photo nor ask for any suggestions all I was doing was defending Jason's position in response to your unhelpful comments"
Wednesday
Honey Badger replied to Jason Taylor's discussion Lawn / soil problem
"Sorry Peter I have to go the distance. I own a tiller it will cut a foot, its bloody hard work and slow. I bet above is at least six passes. Large areas like that I'd hire a cannon. 3/4 passes it would cut to a foot and leave a fine tilth rather…"
Wednesday
Distance replied to Jason Taylor's discussion Lawn / soil problem
"Not how I describe it, it's what it is, a tiller. And and do me a favour 😆  nobody is criticising your work, I'm criticising the ineffectiveness of that tool. I can see it in the picture you have posted. You have posted asking for any suggestions.…"
Wednesday
Peter sellers replied to Jason Taylor's discussion Lawn / soil problem
"Sorry to be blunt but we have cultivated many acres with what you describe as a tiller over the last 40 years without the need to hire a rear tine rotovator, it's unfair to criticise someone elses work without knowing the circumstances and not what…"
Wednesday
Distance replied to Jason Taylor's discussion Lawn / soil problem
"Sorry to be blunt. But my bugbear is people referring to pathetic tillers as rotavators. "
Wednesday
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