Founded in 2008. The Landscape Juice Network (LJN) is the largest and fastest growing professional landscaping and horticultural association in the United Kingdom.
LJN's professional business forum is unrivalled and open to anyone within within the UK landscape industry
LJN's Business Objectives Group (BOG) is for any Pro serious about building their business.
For the researching visitor there's a wealth of landscaping ideas, garden design ideas, lawn advice tips and advice about garden maintenance.
Replies
I used to use Rawlbolts but have found the 10mmm hammer fixings from Screwfix work great and are simpler, cheaper, quicker to install..... I get the really long ones..... about 150mm If its for a gate, I usually put quite a few at the top where the most strain is. I've also found that if you angle them slightly downwards, it increases the resistance to them pulling out of the wall.
A builder also told me to always hammer them in where the mortar line is....... something I didn't used to do as I thought it would be a weak point. He said it avoids hitting "voids" and I've done it that way since.
Hi I always go for threaded self tapping type bolts. Never had any problem with them.
http://www.screwfix.com/p/multi-monti-t-star-countersunk-bolts-6-x-...
Thanks for the advice always thought of the hammer in fixings as a kinda of cheat but will defiantly give them a go as they would be much easier, just a shame i bought a load of coach screws as they were on offer!! Never mind. Just out of interest how many would you put in for a fence and a gate plate?
thunder bolts all the way. really really strong fixing you'll never pull out. no messing with plugs and easy to get out when you do need to reposition anything. if you go online you can get them a lo cheaper than screwfix at tradefixdirect and various other places
I start with 3 fixings on each side for a door frame and adjust according to the expected load. An extra one just above or below the lock can add some security.
robert whatley said:
Yes.... I used to feel that too and would often go to all the trouble of inserting rawlplugs etc....... have been using the hammerfixings for years now with no problem and you can unscrew them if you need too. If its a gatepost, I'll put about 6 in with 3 within the top couple of feet. Fenceposts you can get by with less.
robert whatley said:
If you want to remove them, you should use 'frame fixings' which are screwed in. Hammer fixings are best used when you never likely to remove them i.e fixing skirting boards.
Some makes have a raised lip, which grips the inside of the plug and consequently the substrate. This makes them virtually impossible to remove. Mortar is rarely 'solid' enough to cope with the compressive pressure exerting by using rawlplugs or frame anchors and is just as likely to be 'hollow' behind the surface pointing.
Rawlplugs, etc should be fitted about 40mm from the edge of the brick / block to prevent the 'pressure' creating by using the screw or anchor, from splitting or cracking the brick, which renders the fixing 'useless'.
If you were trying to fix 50mm timber, you should be using M10x100 frame anchors or M8x100 hammer fixings, depending on the 'load' and 'wind' forces likely to be applied.
Thunder bolts. A reassuring rock solid result, and so easy to fix (and/or remove).
Interesting the opinions re brick v mortar fixing. The state and quality of the mortar/brick determines where I elect to fix.
another hammer fixing fan here from my days and to this day on the odd family job or home diy
and mortar joints used (with the extra 1-2 fixings) when on new walls as most cheep bricks now are hollow or very brittle.
on old clays or block work though its much better into the block/brick for a firm fix
-
1
-
2
of 2 Next