Second lawn issue of the day!
Serious badger damage for the second year running, we are talking the total destruction of about 500m2 you see if you google "badgers destroy lawns".
Question is, the temps (less than 10 degrees at night) seem too low to go for nematodes? Merit is an option, but as it's a one-off job the lack of a smaller pack size means I'm going to be selling it as a three-year programme, and they pay up-front?
Even then, how much of a guarantee am I giving that either treatment will put the badgers off and send them next door? This is the first time I've had such a huge issue with them: even when we had a set in my own garden they weren't a problem.
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Is it possible for to pass the job on to a sub-contractor and take a comission?
Even if you killed off the key attraction to them unfortunately this alone will not deter the badgers from returning. Agree it would have some benefit but they will return. The chafer grubs must be dealt with or with or without the badgers you will not have any lawn.
I have clients who have badger setts close to their gardens and they use a mix of badger proof fencing and one swears by using an ultrasonic deterrent device.
Personally, I would discuss the longer term options with your client and budget constraints (treatment, lawn recovery and prevention).
Badgers can cause damage but speak to your local badger group and they will give you assistance and advice.
Merit is very effective but as you know comes at a price but certainly a price worth paying however it must be applied very soon (mid may ideally). With nematodes I would of assumed these have to be watered in later in the year (July onwards). So timings may dictate what solution you use?
One thing we have noticed that where we have repaired badger damage in the past (new topsoil, seed etc) when the badgers have returned they have gone to weaker sections of grass.
Would a well fed lawn be less prone to attack?
Nick, regardless how well fed the lawn is, if you have a chafer grub infestation the only way you are going to get any amount of control is with Merit Turf. It may also be worth pointing out that there are already wispers in the trade about how long Merit will be available for as it is one of the only Neonicotionids still on the market.
There has been some work into certain wetting agents which look like they deter the grubs & therefore the hungry mamals. This option is only marginally cheaper than Merit so you wouldn't really be gaining anything.
Let me know if can help any further.
Cheers, Ollie.
Hi Paul,
It has warmed up recently - soil temp should be 10-12 degrees so despite cool nights might be worth using a thermometer? Nematodes are cheaper and easier to sell to a client as more 'eco' than a chemical treatment. The key with Nematodes is to keep the soil moist so they do not dry out before they burrow into their parasitic hosts!
Chafer Grub control should be considered as an annual treatment immediately after an infestation, so your three year treatment regime is just good practice.... good luck with the client
Thanks for the suggestions.
Actually not the whole garden, but might as well be! The house is being completely refurbed and extended this year so they will be re-doing the lawn anyway. I've suggested trying an ultrasonic in the meantime, and the new fences will be more substantial.
Just a quick question but have you seen any chafer grubs?
Good spot, Graeme....
I haven't. I'm basing this on the client talking to the groundsman at the local golf club, who's seen it occuring a lot around the area last year, and increasing this year.
I spent today unrolling the damage and patching it up, and there was evidence of leatherjacket grubs left behind. I've seen a lot of chafer grubs in compost heaps locally, I used to live just up the road and we had them all the time.
I'm guessing it's unlikely a badger would lay in to a garden so seriously, and repeatedly, for any other reason?
One thing that niggles me is that if you look at the wall there's a hatch in it, blocked with ply. That's access to the drains under a suspended floor, and they run from that area through the lawn to a soakaway about on the left limit of the picture.
Would a leak here cause an increase in earthworms, feeding on the lovely stuff soaking in to the soil from the drains? That said there's some damage at the front as well, but minor by comparison.
I wouldn't be surprised if 6 months of major building work doesn't make them move on, combined with new fences and a new lawn. When it's all being rotovated I'll be looking at what's underneath, and have an on-going plan with the client.