gloucestershire - LJN Blog Posts - Landscape Juice Network2024-03-29T11:54:00Zhttps://landscapejuicenetwork.com/profiles/blogs/feed/tag/gloucestershireSketchUp for constructionhttps://landscapejuicenetwork.com/profiles/blogs/sketchup-for-construction2013-01-16T18:30:00.000Z2013-01-16T18:30:00.000ZRose Lennardhttps://landscapejuicenetwork.com/profil/RoseLennard<div><p><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314172864?profile=original" target="_self"><img width="750" class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314172864?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750"/></a></p><p>I’ve been working on a construction detail for a deck and steps made out of Millboard, with a Plas Pro recycled plastic sub-structure, for a client whose brief has steered me towards a product which will weather predictably, be long lasting and resistant to mildew, algae etc. I use SketchUp for my designing and also for my construction drawings, and it helps me to get my head around the construction detailing if I actually ‘construct’ a virtual reality model of the feature using the appropriate dimensioned components, ie in this case posts, bearers, joists, deck boards, and special fascia boards and step nosings. By fitting these together in the model, I gain a better understanding of the structure than if I simply draw up 2D sections and elevations. By saving different views in SU, I can then export to Layout (part of the SketchUp Pro package)as scaled plan view, section, as well as perspective, and then once in Layout I can add dimensions and annotation, save as a pdf and my construction drawing is ready to issue or print off.</p><p><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314171296?profile=original" target="_self"><img width="750" class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314171296?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750"/></a></p><p>Since I’m fairly new to specifying these particular materials, I wanted to run my detail past the guys at Millboard just to check they were happy with the dimensions, and I was able to quickly email a few screenshots of the model, like the example at the top, over to them. They confirmed that the detail was as it should be, and also commented on how good the SU model was at communicating the information. I am increasingly finding that 3D visualisations are a great help on site, with builders and landscapers relying as much on my ‘artist’s impressions’ (thanks guys!) as my scaled plans and sections. They are a quick and very clear way of understanding how features are put together, and I think being able to offer information in this format is a real bonus for a designer.</p><p> </p><p><a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.chameleongardens.co.uk">www.chameleongardens.co.uk</a></p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p></div>Hand drawn vs CADhttps://landscapejuicenetwork.com/profiles/blogs/hand-drawn-vs-cad2012-12-21T10:03:27.000Z2012-12-21T10:03:27.000ZRose Lennardhttps://landscapejuicenetwork.com/profil/RoseLennard<div><p>There is much debate in the garden design world about computer aided design (CAD) versus hand drawn, and personally I think both have their merits. I use Sketchup to create virtual reality 3D models which allow me to really understand the levels, volumes and spaces of a garden, meaning that my designs are thoroughly thought through, and there are no surprises when the scheme is built.</p><p><img width="400" class="align-right" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314164607?profile=RESIZE_480x480" width="400"/>But recently I reverted to drawing up a masterplan by hand (usually I use a computer generated base plan and just add some hand drawn embellishment to add interest and make it easier to read). <br/> I was surprised to rediscover the delight of drawing by hand, relishing the richness of the 'mark making' compared to a uniform printed line. The drawing is still accurate, but I feel it conveys more of the character of the design. Unfortunately it is more time consuming, so will not be the norm, but drawing up this masterplan by hand has reconnected me to the pleasure of drawing, and I am feeling fired up with ideas for other creative activities as a result. In previous years I did a lot of life drawing and I always felt that this fed into my garden design work - it helped me to really look, and to appreciate shape, form, line, texture, colour. I think there is a real danger that over-reliance on CAD drawing can impoverish design, and I will always make a point of hand drawing alongside my CAD work in order to retain that more fluid and sensitive response to the site.</p><p> </p><p><a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.chameleongardens.co.uk">www.chameleongardens.co.uk</a></p></div>The Icing on the Cake!https://landscapejuicenetwork.com/profiles/blogs/the-icing-on-the-cake2012-08-09T16:30:00.000Z2012-08-09T16:30:00.000ZRose Lennardhttps://landscapejuicenetwork.com/profil/RoseLennard<div><p><span class="main-p-content">You know you have satisfied clients when they not only throw a big garden party for friends, family and all involved in the creation of the garden, but they also have a cake made specially ... in the shape of the garden!<a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314135570?profile=original" target="_self"><img style="width: 449px; height: 659px;" class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314135570?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="547" height="659"/></a></span></p><p><span class="main-p-content">I've been very lucky and had some wonderful clients over the years, and for me, seeing and hearing about the pleasure they get from their new garden really is the icing on the cake! This particular project was a real treat, and everyone involved really went the extra mile to produce a fantastic result: a credit to the whole team. The garden owners are caring for it lovingly, so that it is developing to its full potential. It's hard to believe that the garden is less than a year old, as it is already looking very established. I'm happy that the garden fits very comfortably both in the wider setting and with the house, and that it reflects the personalities and tastes of its characterful owners.</span></p><p><span class="main-p-content"><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314138363?profile=original" target="_self"><img style="width: 540px; height: 444px;" class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314138363?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="514" height="441"/></a></span></p><p><span class="main-p-content">As the evening cooled down and the party goers retreated indoors, I got to see how it looks at night time; a side I hadn't been able to see before, despite having designed the lighting scheme. Quite subtle, but very atmospheric.</span></p><p><span class="main-p-content"><img style="width: 540px; height: 349px;" class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314138869?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="505" height="331"/></span></p><p><span class="main-p-content"><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314143054?profile=original" target="_self"><img style="width: 539px; height: 387px;" class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314143054?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="580" height="435"/></a></span></p><p><span class="main-p-content"><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314138869?profile=original" target="_self"></a></span> <a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.chameleongardens.co.uk">www.chameleongardens.co.uk</a></p></div>Roof garden updatehttps://landscapejuicenetwork.com/profiles/blogs/roof-garden-update2012-06-29T16:25:03.000Z2012-06-29T16:25:03.000ZRose Lennardhttps://landscapejuicenetwork.com/profil/RoseLennard<div><p>I posted about my green roof in April last year, and thought it might be helpful for anyone considering doing a similar scheme to post an update. Here in Gloucestershire, this year has been so much wetter than the previous two, and it has made a big difference to the plants on this unirrigated roof. I've decided that I'm not impressed with the system I used to construct the roof: I don't believe (though admittedly I haven't excavated to find out for sure) that the plant roots are able to penetrate the filter fabric to get through to the water reservoirs in the honeycomb structure below, and the substrate mix dries out in a flash, as well as compacting into a surface which appears pretty hostile to plant life. Having built-up mounds as I have constructed looks nice but must make the growing conditions more difficult for the plants, as water runs off and the substrate, being raised, dries out fast. In dry conditions, many of the plants that aren't succulents, tend to wilt quite fast.</p><p><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314132056?profile=original" target="_self"><img style="width: 677px;" class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314132056?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750" height="531"/></a></p><p>Saying that, it's actually looking really good at the moment, and is a delight to look out at from the upstairs windows, and even from below, it's a surprise to see flowerheads waving in the breeze above the roof fascia. When I think of how sterile it would look if the roof was just flat and black, I can't believe anyone doesn't plant their flat roof! The planting is an experimental mix of succulents, mostly grown from cuttings (very easy) and wildflowers, mostly grown from seed, with the more successful self-seeding prolifically. There are also a few annuals like Mesembryanthemum, for a bit of unsubtle razzle dazzle in the (occasional) sunshine! I've included some rockery plants like Helianthemeum, Alpine Phlox, prostrate Thyme and carpeting Campanula, as well as Chives and Alpine strawberries, which are thriving and spreading. Of the wildflowers, Viola tricolor (Field Pansy), Bladder Campion and Toadflax are doing best. Some grass has found its way in, and I mostly tolerate it, though some gets removed on rare maintenance visits. There are quite a few weeds, and it can look quite messy at times through a critical designer's eye, but the weeds don't automatically get removed, as this planting is for wildlife as well as for aesthetics, and I've enjoyed watching Chaffinches picking up weed seeds, and Blackbirds taking bits of dead stalk for nesting.</p><p><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314137369?profile=original" target="_self"><img style="width: 680px;" class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314137369?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750" height="539"/></a></p><p>There are still some bare patches, particularly on the shallower edges of the mounds, but one of the Sedums is steadily colonising any available space and I shall let it have its way on these bits which nothing else wants to grow on, and weed it out where I have more interesting alternatives.</p><p><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314134263?profile=original" target="_self"><img style="width: 670px;" class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314134263?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750" height="484"/></a></p><p> </p><p><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314137432?profile=original" target="_self"><img style="width: 462px; height: 676px;" class="align-left" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314137432?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="490" height="721"/></a>My advice to anyone planning similar would be, first of all - go for it, it can be beautiful and diverse and good for wildlife. On the practical side, research the substrates and build up, and if the roof is not to be irrigated, ensure that there will be enough goodness and body in the soil to hold moisture and support plant life. Bear in mind that mounds will dry out even faster, and if in sunshine, you may need to stick to succulents unless you are prepared to experiment and replace failures. There may be ways to re-use 'grey' bathwater by siphoning out to the roof if you have a bathroom high enough above, which would help the plants greatly, particularly in the early years. Finally - enjoy!</p><p><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314133441?profile=original" target="_self"></a> </p></div>Spring stock takinghttps://landscapejuicenetwork.com/profiles/blogs/spring-stock-taking2012-03-29T09:00:00.000Z2012-03-29T09:00:00.000ZRose Lennardhttps://landscapejuicenetwork.com/profil/RoseLennard<div><p>This is a great time to take a walk round your (or your clients') garden, with a camera and a notebook, to look at where to plant bulbs in the Autumn. I often find myself wondering where on earth (literally) to fit bulbs in when the time comes, especially if you have a lot of herbaceous plants which you allow to stand over the winter. Come the Spring and I am looking at gaps and wishing they were full of Snowdrops, or later Tulips.</p><p>Yesterday I spent a very pleasant 1/2 hour after work in the beautiful sunshine thinking about bulb planting. Under a Purple Hazel near a dark fence, and around a Cimicifuga which is only just starting to put up new shoots, I'm planning a carpet of Snowdrops and Chionodoxa.</p><p><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314114418?profile=original" target="_self"><img width="750" class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314114418?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750"/></a>Elsewhere there's a few gaps near a huge Euphorbia characias wulfenii, including in between clumps of Salvia verticillata 'Purple Rain' which are barely visible at this time of year; and some vivid orange and purple darwin Tulips could be dramatic against the chartreuse bracts of the Euphorbia.</p><p><img width="750" class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314113981?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750"/>Anemone blanda is a great little bulb which always surprises me in the Spring with its cheerful spread of blue-violet rayed flowers and ground cover foliage, and it seems to tolerate shade well - many corners of the garden would benefit from a few more of these easy and obliging performers.</p><p>Taking time to look closely at the garden also reveals some more subtle treasures. I love the buds of Amelanchier, with a hint of primrose yellow, against grey-purple twigs and bronzy silky young leaves - maybe even more lovely at this stage than when fully open. <img width="750" class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314115074?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750"/>I also saw a gorgeous bee working the Spring flowers: wonderful bright russet fur - will have to check on i-spot for an identification.<a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314116444?profile=original" target="_self"><img width="750" class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314116444?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750"/></a></p><p> <a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.chameleongardens.co.uk">www.chameleongardens.co.uk</a></p></div>Gardens & Photographyhttps://landscapejuicenetwork.com/profiles/blogs/gardens-photography2012-02-04T14:39:40.000Z2012-02-04T14:39:40.000ZRose Lennardhttps://landscapejuicenetwork.com/profil/RoseLennard<div><p>A while back I posted about getting one of my gardens professionally photographed. I’ve been going through photos over the last week as I am having my website revamped, and need to make sure it showcases the best images, and it has made me more aware of a few simple tips to bear in mind when either having a garden photographed, or doing it yourself.</p><p><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314207942?profile=original" target="_self"><img width="750" class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314207942?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750"/></a></p><p>Number 1: landscape format is best for the website, especially if you are going for full screen images. It’s frustrating when you have gorgeous photos but they won’t work on the website because they are simply the wrong shape! I love these two shots, but won’t be able to use them on the website.</p><p><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314214202?profile=original" target="_self"><img width="750" class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314214202?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750"/></a></p><p>Number 2: take time to prepare the garden. I thought that it would be straightforward for a professional to photoshop out flaws, dirty marks, brightly coloured plastic trugs, hosepipes etc, but I was being unrealistic, and once again, I find I have some otherwise gorgeous pics which I can’t use because my eye is instantly drawn to the flaw. Of course some of this also comes down to designing for the expected level of maintenance: if your clients are quite casual about maintenance, then any pale surfaces near falling water will always sport green moss or algal growth, and it would have been better to use a surface where this wouldn’t show. Shame about the yellow hose below, but this garden's in Yorkshire and I can't just pop back...</p><p><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314208828?profile=original" target="_self"><img width="750" class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314208828?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750"/></a></p><p>Number 3: learn to take great photos yourself! (or give a clear and thorough brief). I have found this on a couple of occasions – the photos taken by the professional are technically excellent, but my own snaps often capture particular angles better, because I know the garden better. I know what to look for in a way that someone who has just seen it for the first time can’t hope to do. Also for nearby gardens I may be freer to go there when the weather is best, rather than being constrained to a slot booked into the photographer’s schedule. I have made a mental note to read up on how to use my camera better, and maybe go on a course. I love these reflections below but sadly this shot wasn't captured by the professional photographer - I guess I should have asked.</p><p><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314207087?profile=original" target="_self"><img width="750" class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314207087?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750"/></a></p><p>Number 4: think about the end user. If you are hoping to have any of the photos published, it is good to have a wide variety of formats. Magazines may want to have a large blank area which they can use for text, for example, so they are not just looking for a beautiful garden, they are also interested in how the photos will fit their layout. They may also have a particular angle, maybe more interest in flowers than structure, so try to consider all possible interest groups.</p><p><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314208961?profile=original" target="_self"><img width="750" class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314208961?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750"/></a></p><p>Number 5: make sure you have your camera set to a high enough resolution for the end purpose. Pics I took a few years ago are not usable on the website as they aren’t big enough. Nowadays most cameras produce high res images as standard, but the same may not be true for some phones, so it’s worth being aware of this. The size of image needed will differ, so worth speaking to your website designer about this if you are planning a professional revamp. With websites being so much faster to load these days, clients expect bigger images, which speak volumes, so it’s worth getting this right. I love this photo, but blown up to full screen, it lacks detail (and it's a pity the garden furniture doesn't match!).</p><p><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314213769?profile=original" target="_self"><img width="750" class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314213769?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750"/></a></p><p>Number 6: think ahead. At the end of the day, although all this is time out from the core business of designing gardens and getting them built, we ignore keeping publicity up to date at our peril. Cotswold Living are going to do a feature on one of these gardens, which is great, but magazines have a long lead-in and it won’t be published until this Autumn, a year after the photos were taken. Fingers crossed it will pay off!</p><p><a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.chameleongardens.co.uk">www.chameleongardens.co.uk</a></p></div>Designing for cave dwellershttps://landscapejuicenetwork.com/profiles/blogs/designing-for-cave-dwellers2011-11-21T20:35:46.000Z2011-11-21T20:35:46.000ZRose Lennardhttps://landscapejuicenetwork.com/profil/RoseLennard<div><p>I used to live in Brittany, where I worked for a while on a plant nursery. One day while weeding the pots of Azaleas, my boss pointed at the hedge, saying ‘regardes, troglodyte!’ , which I translated as ‘look, a cave dweller!’. Puzzling: life in rural Brittany could sometimes feel like going back in time, but not to that extent.<br/><a target="_self" href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314162901?profile=original"><img width="750" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314162901?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" class="align-full"/></a><br/>In fact what he was pointing at was a wren, Troglodytes troglodytes. ‘Wrens get their scientific name from the tendency of some species to forage in dark crevices’ (thank you Wikipedia). The other day I was pleased to see one foraging in my garden, outside the office. On one side of a seating area, and next to the pond, I’ve filled some wire gabions with logs, and allowed these to mature gracefully, so the ends are becoming frilled with small bracket fungi, while Honeysuckle, Clematis and native Bryony gradually colonise the structures. A Fargesia bamboo planted nearby has filled out nicely, and to the back I’ve planted a Sea Buckthorn hedge. The base of this hedge is a good place to empty trugs of autumn leaves where they can rot down gently out of site, suppressing the weeds and feeding the hedge.</p><p><a target="_self" href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314162841?profile=original"><img width="750" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314162841?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" class="align-full"/></a></p><p>The guiding principle for the area (& in fact, most of the garden), is increasing the habitat for wildlife. The pond has lots of frogs and newts, and I hope that the base of the gabions makes a nice cool shady retreat for them while they are on land. Deep decaying leaf litter will favour lots of mini-beasts, food for the amphibians. Birds pick the berries off the climbers over winter. The different sized gaps between the logs seem to be great for spiders, and maybe it was this that was attracting the wren’s attention. He was a delight to watch, disappearing into the crevices and the vegetation, then popping up again, picking his way around. Complexity generally seems to be a good thing for wildlife: richness, diversity. It’s a pity that so many gardens are tidied to within an inch of their lives (and that often that is the style that clients want), when a bit more messiness and a few more shrubby thickets is what will make our gardens more hospitable to all kinds of animals. I doubt the wren will nest here, not while there are two moggies who like to sun themselves on the bench, but at least the garden can serve as an occasional wren feeding station.</p><p><a target="_self" href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314162872?profile=original"><img width="750" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314162872?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" class="align-full"/></a></p></div>Lazy gardeninghttps://landscapejuicenetwork.com/profiles/blogs/lazy-gardening2011-11-05T15:04:03.000Z2011-11-05T15:04:03.000ZRose Lennardhttps://landscapejuicenetwork.com/profil/RoseLennard<div><p>I’m a lot more interested in plants than I am in lawns, and our lawns have been gradually diminishing since we moved in 4 years ago. However, neither my husband nor I are particularly keen on digging, and we’ve run out of places to stack stripped turf, so when I decided that another chunk of lawn should make way for plants, I ordered in 2 cubic metres of mushroom compost and spread it straight on the grass, using some big sheets of cardboard that some furniture had been delivered in, to cover it up and stop the birds slinging the compost all over the garden.</p><p><a target="_self" href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314165238?profile=original"><img width="750" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314165238?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" class="align-full"/></a><br/> It’s by no means pretty, but the plan is that over winter the grass will die off and the worms will start to incorporate the compost into our extremely dry sandy soil. By the Spring, we’ll have put in some chunky timber edgings to make a low raised bed (which may or may not have a small water feature in...), the cardboard can go on the compost heap, and hopefully we’ll have a nice rich friable soil to plant into.</p><p>That’s the lazy bit. However, that left more than half of the compost to be spread around the garden. During the Spring and Summer I watched the garden struggle with the minimal rainfall that this part of Gloucestershire had to make do with; occasional watering with a hose just couldn’t compensate. Hopefully a good mulch on (finally!) wet soils will help the plants to cope if next year is as dry. So that meant picking up several sacks of leaves before tucking the garden up for the Winter in a nice soft cosy blanket of compost. The leaves of course will sit in black sacks behind the shed for a couple of years to make leafmould – black gold. I do sometimes just tuck them under shrubs and I’m sure this is good for providing habitat for minibeasts and generally supporting a more diverse and robust ecosystem in the garden, but I didn’t want them under the mulch in case they robbed the soil of nitrogen as they broke down (unnecessarily cautious?). This was all pretty hard work, though in a final gesture to laziness, I’m afraid I mulched over lots of small weeds and self-seeded plants – I’ll know in the Spring if this was a mistake.<br/> <a target="_self" href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314158550?profile=original"><img width="750" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314158550?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" class="align-full"/></a></p><p>I have great respect for anyone who gardens for a living – by the end of this, my hamstrings were tight enough to snap! Not what I needed when doing long runs in training for a charity run next month, and a couple of days setting out about 700 plants on site the following week was further punishment. What doesn’t kill you makes you stronger...</p></div>on-going team effort!https://landscapejuicenetwork.com/profiles/blogs/on-going-team-effort2011-10-20T18:10:29.000Z2011-10-20T18:10:29.000ZRose Lennardhttps://landscapejuicenetwork.com/profil/RoseLennard<div><p>I posted a blog about this garden 6 weeks ago, and since then the build has continued well. Saying that, I think all builds go through phases when they seem to be taking shape really fast, and others when you wonder if it will ever be finished, and I get the feeling that just now the energy on-site has faded slightly, and they're not yet at that stage when they're so close to finishing that it gets exciting again. Clients get tired of living surrounded by builders and mess, and just want it to be over. At least with this job, we haven't hit any major obstacles*, so it's just steady progress towards an emerging end product.</p><p><a target="_self" href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314153622?profile=original"><img width="750" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314153622?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" class="align-full"/></a>I went away on holiday and came back to find the rammed earth wall substantially complete. I had been very keen to see it happening and get involved, but they couldn't delay it as that would have messed up the schedule. In fact it sounded as though it was very hard work as the space was too confined to use the mechanical rammer, and all the work had to be done by hand. Some very tired bodies at the end of that... I'm really pleased with the way the different coloured layers have come out, deliberately random rather than straight lines. Due to the force applied against the shuttering, there is a certain amount of undulation in the curve of the wall - we're all quite relaxed about this as it is a hand-made, organic sort of structure, and this should actually look quite interesting in the uplighters. It's now drying out and getting paler. There's lime in the mix to stabilise it, and a lime-rich mortar mix with a gutter in on the top, to shed water, so hopefully it should be weatherproof.</p><p><a target="_self" href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314155658?profile=original"><img width="750" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314155658?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" class="align-full"/></a></p><p>One thing to bear in mind when designing with rammed earth is that the structures are of necessity fairly chunky. If I had been building this wall in other materials, I would have made it slimmer, and the bulk of it is quite imposing, though this will become less dominant as the planting matures.</p><p><a target="_self" href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314157487?profile=original"><img width="750" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314157487?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" class="align-full"/></a>Some lovely stone work, and we've all been very happy with the effect of the sawn Yorkstone slabs and setts, from Marshalls. Jim has been meticulous in sawing stone on site to ensure the size of joints are minimised. <a target="_self" href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314156563?profile=original"><img width="750" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314156563?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" class="align-full"/></a><a target="_self" href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314157001?profile=original"></a>Nearer the house the stone size matches the house bricks to create a link.</p><p><a target="_self" href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314156060?profile=original"><img width="750" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314156060?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" class="align-full"/></a>Planting is starting to go in, which makes a big difference, though I am of course impatient to see it once it's settled in and started to grow. Planting at this time of year should give the plants a chance to make a bit of root growth before the Winter, so they should grow away well in the Spring. A few borderline hardy plants like Verbena bonariensis won't be planted until the Spring, and we may either fleece others like Phormium and prostrate Rosemary, or even lift and protect in the greenhouse, if the weather looks like getting really severe. I would love the hedging to be more mature, but budgets are not unlimited, and the clients understand that gardens are not instant and are prepared to wait a few years for the effect to emerge.</p><p><a target="_self" href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314156501?profile=original"><img width="750" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314156501?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" class="align-full"/></a>The water features are to be commissioned shortly, and seeing these filled will make a big difference, even if the aquatic plants won't be available until next year. I've been specifying the aquatic planting and trying hard to keep it simple and bold, rather than being tempted to include all of my favourites. The planting beds in the main pond include gravel beds which will help to clean the water, which will circulate through the gravel, and underneath we have built hiding places for fish as they like to have refuges.</p><p><a target="_self" href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314154087?profile=original"><img width="750" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314154087?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" class="align-full"/></a>Laying turf and putting down the wearing course on the self-binding gravel paths will suddenly bring everything together, but these are of course final jobs.</p><p>*And then of course, there's the small matter of a summerhouse... an on-going legal dispute with neighbours has so far held this up for many months, so that while the rest of the garden moves towards completion, one corner remains untouched apart from the abandoned foundations, like a slumbering elephant in the garden. But that's another story...</p></div>A team efforthttps://landscapejuicenetwork.com/profiles/blogs/starting-to-take-shape2011-09-09T21:00:00.000Z2011-09-09T21:00:00.000ZRose Lennardhttps://landscapejuicenetwork.com/profil/RoseLennard<div><p>Last November I went to see prospective clients on a site near Cheltenham, and knew straightaway that this project was one that I very much wanted to be involved with. The house was very contemporary, with curved facades and large areas of glass. Inside the style was personal and distinctive, with a large collection of mainly North American art. The big windows gave great views out onto the garden, and the clients were keen to really transform the currently uninspiring garden.</p><p><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314142961?profile=original" target="_self"><img width="750" class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314142961?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750"/></a></p><p><em>Above: the back garden before work started; TPO'd Yew tree in prominent position</em></p><p>To my delight the meeting went well and my quote was accepted, and I started work on the design soon after. I used Sketchup to really understand the level changes and the relationships of the spaces to each other, as well as the views out from the house, and the movement of the sun around the garden. The curved architecture of the house gave me a strong starting point for the design. There were also several mature trees on site, two of them protected by TPOs, and the constraints of preserving the existing levels around the trees also helped to generate the final design. My clients proved to be wonderfully adventurous and open to ideas, and agreed to incorporating a feature curved wall made of rammed earth, two substantial water features and a summerhouse with a green roof. They were happy with specification of high quality materials including Quercus woven oak fencing, low retaining walls made of chunky green oak sleepers set vertically to form curves, and sawn yorkstone paving.</p><p><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314146831?profile=original" target="_self"><img width="750" class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314146831?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750"/></a></p><p><em>Above - positioning the formwork for the curved rammed earth wall. Quercus fencing looking great on the boundary.</em></p><p>Once the full tender package had been drawn up and prices returned, we were able to appoint Jim Steed from Outdoor Living Space, a choice I was very happy with as he had built a garden for me before and I had been impressed with his workmanship and attention to detail. Work on site started in earnest in July, and has been going very smoothly (except for the issues with restrictive covenants and withdrawn permitted development rights, which are another story altogether...). The water features are being built by Sam Clark from Landscaping4u, so it is a collaborative effort, and this seems to be working well. All the contractors are very happy to be treated to regular deliveries of buckets of tea and home made cake from the clients! (Sadly I always seem to miss the cake break...)</p><p><img width="750" class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314143367?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750"/></p><p><em>Above - setting out the lines of setts which will cut through the yorkstone paving, and looking to the split levl pool beyond</em></p><p>As ever it's exciting to see my design taking shape, and this project is particularly enjoyable because of the great clients and team spirit from all involved. Can't wait to see it all planted up!</p><p><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314143508?profile=original" target="_self"><img width="750" class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314143508?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750"/></a></p><p><em>Above - pool going in next to the front door. I'm looking forward to seeing the effect of light reflecting off the water into the walls and ceiling inside.</em></p><p><em><a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.chameleongardens.co.uk">www.chameleongardens.co.uk</a></em></p><p><em> </em></p><p><em> </em></p><p> </p></div>water savinghttps://landscapejuicenetwork.com/profiles/blogs/water-saving2011-05-05T07:55:42.000Z2011-05-05T07:55:42.000ZRose Lennardhttps://landscapejuicenetwork.com/profil/RoseLennard<div><p>The water butts have long run dry, and feeling a bit guilty about watering the garden, not to mention thinking maybe we shouldn't have had a water meter fitted, we've started showering in the bath with the plug in and siphoning the water off afterwards for the garden. Surprising how much there is, certainly enough to make a difference. It's a bit of a faff, but it feels good not to be wasting all that perfectly re-usable water.</p><p>I also noticed that one of the veg beds which I had covered with cut open compost bags months ago (mainly to keep the cats off until I planted it) has actually stayed quite moist underneath, as well as weed free. I'm wondering about planting through a plastic mulch for larger plants like courgettes and tomatoes, since it seems to be so effective in preventing the soil from drying up. Obviously need to make sure that rainfall (if we ever get any??)gets channelled to the plants rather than running off, but on a flat bed that should be possible.</p><p>Anyone else got any crafty water-saving tips?</p><p> </p><p><a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.chameleongardens.co.uk">www.chameleongardens.co.uk</a></p></div>wow look at all that space!https://landscapejuicenetwork.com/profiles/blogs/wow-look-at-all-that-space2011-04-26T18:30:00.000Z2011-04-26T18:30:00.000ZRose Lennardhttps://landscapejuicenetwork.com/profil/RoseLennard<div><p>Had a shed clear out yesterday. I know that sounds like a bit of a sad thing to do on a bank holiday monday but it's one of those jobs that is never top priority so never gets done and yet it is always a pain trying to use the shed when it's cluttered, dirty and disorganised, so today while the OH was (finally) finishing off a bit of paving, I tackled The Shed. Loads of stuff in there that I hadn't touched since moving here 4 years ago. Mice have made themselves at home, shredded all kinds of things to make bedding and left their mark in a very smelly way. Great to chuck out a lot of rubbish that should have gone long ago, and Freecycled other stuff that I can't use but seems to be just what someone else is dying to get hold of (strange). Found all kinds of things that I had forgotten I had but will be useful: fleece jackets for pot plants - wish I'd remembered about those last winter...</p><p>End result: so much space that I almost feel dizzy when I go in. It's the same shed from the outside, but open the door, and it's a completely different shed from the one I've been trying to get the mower out of /pot plants up in/ find my gardening gloves in. I love it. Funny how it wasn't a priority job but it was really worthwhile finally getting round to it, and instead of being a constant source of annoyance it will now be a pleasure to use. I wonder how many other aspects of my life could benefit from the same spring cleaning...</p><p> </p><p><a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.chameleongardens.co.uk">www.chameleongardens.co.uk</a></p></div>roof garden taking shapehttps://landscapejuicenetwork.com/profiles/blogs/roof-garden-taking-shape2011-04-24T22:04:03.000Z2011-04-24T22:04:03.000ZRose Lennardhttps://landscapejuicenetwork.com/profil/RoseLennard<div><p><a target="_self" href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314117847?profile=original"><img height="343" width="487" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314117847?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" class="align-left"/></a>My roof garden has been gradually evolving: it was constructed over a year ago but planting has been piecemeal and experimental. Last year I was very hard hearted and didn't water as I wanted everything to be able to fend for itself but with the dry Spring last year this made for a very slow start and many seeds just didn't come to anything at all. Another dry Spring and I am being a little more nurturing! I have given all planting a feed of fish blood and bone meal on account of the very poor soil/substrate, and have been watering occasionally, and results are encouraging.</p><p>On the sunnier parts of the roof (it is on a single storey extension to the North East side of the 2 storey house) I have planted mainly succulents either bought as small plants or grown in plug trays as cuttings and divisions. These are all doing pretty well and interference from Magpies has mainly resulted in more divisions and new plants. On less sunny areas I have experimented with a range of plants: some native wildflowers which naturally grow on poor thin soils like Sea Campion, Sea Thrift, Thymes, Wild Basil, Toadflax. I've also bought a few rockery plants like Phlox, Campanula, Helianthemum, and the Phlox in particular has been lovely with masses of flowers for a long period. Chives and Alpine Strawberry, now in their second year have established well and making good growth and I may even be able to harvest a few berries this year! Euphorbia cyparissus which is normally invasive is being far too well behaved and is clearly not impressed with the conditions!</p><p>I've also tried out a few bulbs: Crocus chrysanthus, dwarf Iris, and Chionodoxa in the shade. The darn Magpies had great sport pulling them out, but those that survived were a delight to look out at while brushing teeth on early Spring mornings. Last summer I planted out some outrageously lurid Mesembryanthemum and of course these relished the hot dry conditions and flowered their socks off so I'm growing more this year. I've also sown some Californian Poppy and Alyssum and growing some Aubretia to plant out later.</p><p>Part of the beauty of the roof garden is that it isn't on show, so I can take my time with it. The basic layout is good to look at, with mounds of substrate divided by 'rivers' of gravel with a few larger rounded stones to add texture. There's a big old log gently rotting down at one end to give the mini-beasts some habitat, and a shallow tin bowl collecting water for the birds (and I wonder why the Magpies hang around...). I haven't yet decided how much I mind about weeds so some get removed and others are tolerated as native vegetation, for the time being.</p><p><a target="_self" href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314119316?profile=original"><img height="343" width="486" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3314119316?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" class="align-full"/></a></p><p>Anyone else have any roof gardening experiences to share?</p><p> </p><p>Rose</p><p><a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.chameleongardens.co.uk">www.chameleongardens.co.uk</a></p></div>Landscapers, gardeners and designers in Gloucestershirehttps://landscapejuicenetwork.com/profiles/blogs/landscapers-gardeners-and-22007-09-17T06:30:00.000Z2007-09-17T06:30:00.000ZPhil Voicehttps://landscapejuicenetwork.com/profil/philvoice<div><a href="http://www.landscapejuicenetwork.com/profiles/blogs/find-a-landscaper-gardener-or" target="_blank">Return to main index</a><br />
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