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With temperatures heading up, and in some cases record highs beaten, what precautions should you take when applying sprays and fertilisers to help plants get through the summer months?

Volatilisation
Spraying in hot weather not only causes evaporation of the liquid, but before it can enter the leaf the active ingredient vaporises and can be carried onto neighbouring plants where it can kill and injure.

JKW (Japanese Knotweed)
Many people are looking to spray JKW now – for best effect wait a little longer until it has ‘flowered’. The uptake of spray will be greater and there will be more translocation down to the growing points in the root, to reduce next years growth. Other methods apart from spraying are: cut & fill or stem injection – the latter being the most effective at reducing regrowth year on year.

Volatilisation #2
This term can also refer to the loss of Nitrogen (ammonia gas) from soils. Hot weather brings people out in their gardens and there is a great temptation to instantly recreate Wimbledon or the green turf at Lords.

When fertiliser is applied on high pH soils (above 7.5) in warm weather the nitrogen is lost through the soil surface as ammonia gas which is environmentally unfriendly, bad for grass and a waste of resources. Standard release fertilisers, spread this time of year, can also scorch or brown the turf. Slow release nitrogen fertilisers are safer or choose soluble organic liquids like Maxicrop Concentrate, a pure seaweed extract, which can provide nourishment and protectant properties for the turf.

Wetting Agents
Prolonged dry weather evaporates moisture from the soil leaving it water repellent. Wetting agents help to cure dry patch and decrease the need for extra watering of soil or turf.

Granular wetting agents like Scotts H2Pro allow moisture to penetrate the soil freely down to the roots where it is needed most. Grass will stay greener and healthier as roots develop in length to ‘chase’ the moisture - leaving them less vulnerable to sudden spikes in temperature.

Brown hedges?
Could it be conifer aphids or another cause? If you can discount hard trimming, sun scorch and root compaction, then there is a good chance conifer aphid or another sap-sucking aphid is feeding on the hedge.

Typically irregular brown patches will start lower down and gradually spread in random areas upwards and outwards as successive legions of aphids move home for new feeding opportunities. Contact or physical pesticides work, as their name suggests, by touching the insect while systemic sprays get into the plant tissue which is then passed on to the sap sucking culprit.

Spraying
Most plants & weeds suffer stress during a drought. Effectively this means their normal growth cycle is interrupted and the plant ‘shuts up shop’ by reducing loss of moisture from its leaves (mostly undersides) and putting its growth enzymes into neutral. Any pesticide application has a much harder time entering the plant so best advice is to wait until a good shower has passed before spraying.

For more information and advice visit www.progreen.co.uk

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Open forum activity

Adam Woods replied to Oliver clarkson's discussion Rose spray
"I generally spray a heck of a lot in Feb/March, or just befroe the buds appear, then as soon as the leaves have appreared stop... unless I have a real problem with a particular plant - otherwise I would spend my life spraying for blackspot :)"
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Tim Bucknall replied to Oliver clarkson's discussion Rose spray
"That surprises me.  Do you not continue through the season? Surely you'll only get a few week protection at best from each application?"
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Adam Woods replied to Gary R's discussion Horticultural Gypsum..... How long?
"Sticking in a late reply here...  but, and it depends totally on this.... how big is the lawn? and how established is the garden? + of course how much is the client willing to pay/put up with to get a solution??? In new estate houses locally (built…"
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Billybop replied to Jamie's discussion Stihl BG86c problems
"Absolutely nothing wrong with that Graham if you enjoy it... like these people who restore WW2 aircraft and old steam engines etc ... I wish I had the patience to do it !  I have to be in the right frame of mind to repair things, and it can be very…"
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Graham Taylor replied to Jamie's discussion Stihl BG86c problems
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Adam Pilgrim replied to Gary R's discussion Horticultural Gypsum..... How long?
"Interesting discussion but as I currently live in the area of two of the largest gypsum mines in the UK and in an area where the prevailing soil type for arable use is 'Nottingham brick clay', if applying gypsum worked to break up the ground, all…"
Sunday
Billybop replied to Jamie's discussion Stihl BG86c problems
"Same here Vic...even if I was offered a free petrol blower with a lifetime supply of fuel thrown in, I would decline it. Not for environmental reasons either. I use the most powerful Ego battery one but have kept a couple of the previous Ego models…"
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Adam Woods replied to Oliver clarkson's discussion Rose spray
"Rose Clear. concentrate .. but I finished blackspot spraying over a month ago"
Sunday
John F replied to Gary R's discussion Horticultural Gypsum..... How long?
"Just out of interest how deep is the clay Gary ? 
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Large area or small area ? 
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Sunday
Vic 575 replied to Jamie's discussion Stihl BG86c problems
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Tim Turner replied to Gary R's discussion Horticultural Gypsum..... How long?
"I got a manual one from amazon of all places - was about £150 but it actually works, unlike the £40 ones.  I'd recommend it on a small area."
Sunday
Tim Turner replied to Gary R's discussion Horticultural Gypsum..... How long?
"I've never used it I'm afraid but I'd be very interested to know how you get on with it. Where did you get the idea to use humic acid and seaweed extract? How will you apply the gypsum? (I thought it had to be incorporated in to the soil to be…"
Sunday
Gary R replied to Gary R's discussion Horticultural Gypsum..... How long?
"Horticulture gypsum is an organic mineral. 
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Sunday
Gary R replied to Gary R's discussion Horticultural Gypsum..... How long?
"Hi again.  I don't have a hollow Tyne machine. So the plan is to use either a manual one or just fork the area if worst comes to worst to get some light/ nutrients etc in to the root system. Sand. Never really considered it tbh "
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