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Another daft one but is the chain sharp and tensioned correctly on the chainsaw you were using?
'Horizontal' for operator comfort (like on some hedgetrimmers you can rotate the handle 90 degrees). Just a whimsical idea!
Have you tried cutting from the inside out once you’ve got into it? That should help avoid the green stuff a bit
The handle couldn't be set up like that, because then you would be in no position to resist kickback or trigger the chainbreak.
I'd probably use a step cut on the larger ones and an angled cut straight through on the smaller ones, saves the chain getting pinched.
Agree with the angled cut or stepped cut for mature hedges etc, but never with saw above shoulder ht - ie work above, cut below.
We're about to trial one of the Stihl Cordless saws as a pruning saw, not significantly lighter but the power on demand makes it a potentially good use.
Bit of area of contention Gary, do you use trained climbers for conifer topping and similar work with chainsaws?
I've taken HSE guidelines to suggest no 'off ground' saw work without relevant quals.
Absolutely. Myself and two others have CS30-31, one has additional CS32 which deals with most of our ground based contractual / maintenance work, but for any ariel/rope work we use a sister tree company and now they tend to use MEWPs.
We don't do or advertise for domestic work, so not normally dealing with that marketplace. Also,we can't set foot on a commercial site without having submitted our RAMS documentation which helps you think through how a job need to be logically tackled (stops me/us steaming in on the fly..)
Also using a powered pole saw helps raise your working height easily and generates a reasonable angled cut before you have to consider climbers etc