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I don't think a protective barrier would work Melissa. The mycelium can travel for metres underground and attached from plant root to plant root.
Although not licensed to do it any more, Armillatox (now called a soap based garden cleaner) controls honey fungus.
Thanks Phil
Hi Melissa,
As Phil says, Armillatox will control it and likewise, although not approved for it, we have a product called MMC Pro that will do the job.
Click here to go to the page on our website for this product.
Cheers, Ollie
www.agrigem.co.uk
0800 1337849
Hi Ollie/Phil
I have honey fungus in my own garden and have had the `feed` source, an old tree stump removed and ground down as much as possible). I was planning on removing the infected soil, putting in a barrier a metre down and refilling with new compost. The fungus has spread to my neighbours tree and if I don't put in the barrier I fear that the neighbours tree will infect any new shrubs that I plant.
Ollie, have you actually used the MMC Pro product on Honey Fungus and if so have you found it's worked? The info I read says that the HF infection will die out if the source (in my case the tree stump) is removed but it's not clear how long the infection will stay in the soil for.
I would be really grateful for any experience/advice anyone has with what has worked/hasn't worked. I don't want to lose any more shrubs and I don't want to spend time and money on a barrier if it's not going to work.
Thank you Anita
You could also try having Biochar applied to the area around the infected stump/roots. Bartlett does this with an air compressor which also helps to break up existing mycillium.
If you go with Armillatox, speak with them re application methods. They've been at it for over 20 years!
There are products that tackle honey fungus to a degree, but I think most of the practical work should come from improving the overall health and wellbeing of the garden. Making sure that soil is healthy and that plants are kept in good condition (and sick plants are dealt with decisively) is key. As Phil says, root barriers will have little effect when the mycelia can travel very deep in the soil. The danger with relying too heavily on a chemical product alone, although use anything that will work, won't do much to protect plants in the longer term.
I think garden tidiness is now crucial; no logs for insects to live in during the winter or any other reason to leave woody material in the garden, and probably best to avoid chipped bark on borders (unless very finely chipped as found in peat free composts). A holistic approach using good hygiene/practice and chemicals where necessary should help keep the problems at bay.