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Hi I have just bought an old Hayter to get nice stripes in customers lawns. Only paid £25 for it. It wasnt running good at all. I have cleaned and stripped the carb. Cleaned and reset the ignition coil. It now runs as it should. I have another problem. The drive sticks on when not engaged. I have renewed the cable and adjusted it and still does it no matter what I try, it does disengage after a few tries when the engine isnt running. Has anyone had the same problems. Is there a away to fix this please help.

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  • PRO
    Bloody good mowers these old Hayter Pro's, I have had 3 in my time, never had an issue with drive sticking on, I have had the drive working intermittently, but never sticking on, to get underneath just undo all the bolts on the plastic covers on underside of deck, I don't think you need to remove blade from memory but would probably make it easier if you did, put the roller on highest setting and should give you room to play with.
  • PRO

    Assuming that this is the 'side drive engine', belt drive model this fault can be caused by the following:

    Cable stuck  - not likely to be this as you say you have changed it.

    Belt tensioning lever arm under the rear of the mower (that the drive engagement cable connects to) seized totally or partially - be EXTREMELY careful if it is this as as a previous poster stated the bolts are very prone to snapping and as they are hardened bolts can be a royal pain to drill out.

    Front belt pulley on the engine end excessively rusted or worn - our old shape Hayter 56 does this when standing for any length of time - usually frees off with use.

    Drive belt excessively worn and 'grabbing' - replace belt.

    What eventually kills of these machines is where the rear of the throw plate rots away where the drive tensioning arm attaches to - not sure on your model but for many of the older ones (our 56 included) the throw plate part is now obsolete and unavailable.

    Hope some of this helps.

    Afraid i have no experience of the newer gearbox type machines as we moved onto Lawnflite and latterly Kubota Pro 21" mowers.

    • Why did you change to Lawnflite and Kubota Pro 21 Adam?  We had 21" Honda/Lawnflite and found it great on largish lawns, but we had gearbox problems and it was awkward and less manouverable than the Hayters.

      • PRO

        A few reasons Colin - we found the Honda engines on the Lawnflite/Kubota cheaper to run (WAY more fuel efficient), more powerful, very useful with the 'rotostop' clutch not having to restart the engine on every bag emptying and far, far superior wet grass collection to every Hayter I have ever used - this includes the older style 48's and 56's and some of the newer models too.

        One gearbox failed on an older Lawnflite machine, we bought secondhand which had served us for 18 month, nearly two years of intensive mowing.

        This machine was replaced by a new Kubota Pro bought earlier this year.

        As you say, it is horses for courses and the longer handles and heavier weight make it unwieldy in smaller gardens but we don't do many of those!

        • PRO
          Horses for courses for sure. I never had any of the 56's, but my 3 / 48's I loved, great wet collection, and good strong engines, never missed a beat, the only reason I stopped buying them is because Hayter stopped making that particular model and decided to go all modern and move away from a great little mower design. If Hayter ever decided to remake it's older models I would buy one in an instant,...
          • PRO

            Shame we can't get the best of both worlds;

            An old style Hayter 48/56 with a new style side PTO GXV Honda engine....

            "Probably be the best lawnmower in the world" :)

            • PRO
              I'd definitely buy one....:-)
  • All fixed now cheers for all your help. It was the lever arm that the cable from fixes to under the mower took it off wd40 it and greased it up also there was a load of crap under the plastic cover. Cheers again
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